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The Wines

100% Syrah (late 1970s) from Malleval & St Jean-de-Muzols, destemmed, crushed, 3-4 week vinification at 30°C, 3 daily pumping overs, aged new 275-litre oak casks 16 months after malo in those casks (until late 2000s was 33% new oak, 67% 1-2 year oak casks), 4,000-4,950 b

2016 ()

(casks) dark red. Sleek, sweet oak leads the nose, so there is a charcoal presence above its cooked black fruits aroma. It’s not an ensemble. The palate bears fleshy content with oaking here and there, a note of toffee from that late on. This isn’t an organized wine, and is rather a bumpy ride. From 2019. It lacks the finesse of the best, could be fresher. 4,950 b. 2023-24 Nov 2017

2015

(casks) dark robe. The nose sits around a good circle of black cherry and cassis fruit, comes with oak-grilling. The palate also parades its oak, but wears a stylish gras that continues with a sure step. The finish brings in blue fruit with a clack of clarity, iodine. This is intricate, rewarding. Drink from mid-2018. 2025-27 Oct 2016

2013 ()

(casks) dark robe, very full. Oak pushes out on the nose, with an inky inlay, a ripe cassis fruiting at its centre. The oak is forceful for now. The palate therefore has a note of varnish from the oak, and the fruit just about wriggles its way through to a potentially tasty sign-off. It ends on lip-smacking oak, licorice. I think it can swallow most of the oak if left. From 2017 and decant it. €19 at the cellars. USA US$29 Vision Wine & Spirits 2023-24  Jan 2015

2010 ()

(casks) dark robe, legs, rich aspect. Simmer of black fruit across the glass with some violet, and an insinuation of snap or cut from the granite. The palate delivers tarry black fruits with brisk tannic lining – this is a wine of some gusto and drive. It builds up into a concerted finish – is steady and less “fast” there. Good local promise. Holds bustling, busy fruit, vintage acidity, oak touches. There is tar on the aftertaste offset by some floral notes. From spring 2013. 2020-22 Nov 2011

2007

(casks) full robe; crunchy black fruit aroma that is also very nutty from its oak. There are friendly black fruits with an oak inlay on the palate – thus there is a licorice, coffee-cocoa and pepper taste on the finish. A wine of sound, unfussy depth, a softer style of vintage here. Modern style St Jo, its oak efficiently handled, too, provided it is bottled soon. From mid-2010. 2015-16 March 2009

2006

subdued red robe; steady, soft red fruits aroma – ripe wild strawberry with a floral-rose top air, a little oiliness. The palate fruit is rather refined, with raspberry in the flavour. Good, quite tight flow on the palate for now. Drink from mid-2008. This gives calm, assured drinking, is w.o.w. wine – a sympa wine that persists nicely. 2012-13 Dec 2007

2005

quite a red colour; bouquet shows red jam with some spice, delivered in a round shape. The palate is knit together, with some ease in the red fruits, and late spice. Is a touch sweet, not too much. Rather dry and vacant on the finish. No great scale, but OK for early drinking. From mid-2007 to late 2009. Nov 2006