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The Wines

Viognier (1985) from 300+ metres on southern zone Volan at Malleval, 10-20 kg box harvesting, cool decantation, 2-3 week vinification started in vat, then finished in 275-litre new oak casks at 16-18°C, raised 275-litre new oak casks 12-15 months, fine lees stirred, malo completed, filtered, 3,300 b

2017

(casks) full, marked yellow robe. The bouquet has an aroma of brioche baked bread with cooked lemon, a side note of infused herbal tea and toasting from its oak. It’s angular rather than rounded. The palate has citrus elements in it, goes off half cock, coming and going as it travels. I feel it has been harvested early for freshness, but that has meant it hasn’t achieved its due richness – achieving the richness without the heaviness and high degree was a high wire balancing act this year. There is a note of spearmint on the aftertaste. 2022-23 Dec 2018

2016 ()

yellow robe. The bouquet is neat, on a shaft of pear, cooked lemon, toasting, a little reduction. This is fine, stylish, with an apricot-pear flavour which is gentle. It has good acidity, is a well presented Condrieu with detail, clarity. To 2022 March 2018

2015

(cask) full yellow robe. Spice and ginger feature in a full bouquet that holds little back. It’s a robust start, in the eye of the vintage. The palate is sturdy, close-knit, has a thorough heart of compressed content, with white fruit jam, raisin at its centre. The depth is secure, and this will do well with white meats, pork, notably. The finish is well extended. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2013 ()

(casks) yellow colour, legs; oak, white raisin show in an insistent nose, which is a bit refusenik, stubborn. The palate is oaked, sturdy, has pretty sound filling. It is a touch on the alcohol, a fine line being trod there. It can become shapely, from 2016. €42. 3,300 b. 2020-21 Jan 2015

2011 ()

pale yellow. Oak and a white fruit richness on the nose, the oak prominent, so there is strong toasting, vanilla. There is depth behind the oaking. The palate is more channelled, close-knit than the nose suggests: it has a direct peach style fruiting, pear touches. It ends on oak and some heat. White jam, subdued banana and melted butter mix together. It needs to fuse – from mid-2013. 13°. To 2017  Nov 2012

2010 ()

mid-depth yellow; exotic fruit aroma, banana flambé touches on the edges. Has a cool fortitude since it is deep and grounded, has gras, but is also pretty clear. It keeps moving securely through the palate, offering a pear-banana flavour, brioche bread also. It has a clear, tangy exit, with tar and oak there. 14°. 2016-17 Nov 2011

2007 ()

mid-depth yellow; the nose lacks expression – it is stubborn, rather plain, with baked fruit tart, maybe banana or lime, and high tone. The palate has brown sugar, crème brûlée notions – dried fruits and nuts such as cashew. The fruit is rather flat, but there is a little mineral freedom on the finish, along with oak. 13.5°. To 2011. Dec 2008

2006 ()

yellow robe; crème caramel, flan mix on the nose – the aroma lies in the glass rather than coming out and greeting. The palate is low-key, veers towards hazelnut and apricot after a dumb start. It finishes quite roundly, and its texture is pleasantly smooth. Has more charm than many Condrieu 2006s. 13.5°. 2010-11 Jan 2008

2005

pear hue, has a low-key off-white robe. Mineral and honey mix on the nose, with some ripe fruit, plus a tangy note. Subdued flavour as if it is in a dumb moment. Has decent richness, though. Extends OK, to a round, easy finale. Lacks a little spark, but can be better and more open by mid-2007. Has some mineral flecking and rather a tannic mid-palate – the oak effect. 13.5°. Nov 2006

2003 ()

yellow tints; closely packed bouquet, melted butter effect, closed now. Palate also rather dumb. Intrinsic flavour is full, broad. Lacks nuance, is down the line. Dec 2004

2001

plump, ripe, buttery nose. Tasty, broad wine, contains a lot of fat. Melted butter, some orange zest on finale. All on the gras, a little clumsy with it. March 2004