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The Wines

70-80% Grenache, 10-20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre from 2 hectares on clay-limestone soils on La Paillère, N-W facing, av age 70 years, 4 week whole bunch vinification, cap punching, daily pumping overs, 1 part vat emptying/refilling, old hydraulic press used, aged 50 hl large barrels of Russian oak 10-18 months, fined, filtered, 5,900-10,000 b

2015 ()

(barrel) dark red robe. The nose gives a crunchy air of prune, blackberry fruit, has an inner ripeness, some mystery about what is to come. The palate delivers good lashings of fresh, crest of the wave dark berry fruit, is wholesome and persistent, indeed insistent. I like its energy and its peppery darkness, the content hitting the finishing line well, with cool fruit and spearmint there. This is a pictorial wine, STGT from the lands of herbs and warmth. Ten years on from their ****(*) 2005 comes this wine of character and truth.14.5°. From late 2018. 2028-30 March 2017

2014 ()

(barrel) full robe. The bouquet is broad, offers spiced berry fruits, an air of sizzled bacon, a central nugget of fruit. The palate is true, local, has a dark, black raisin, prune flavour with a smattering of dried herbes de Provence. It holds gras that is rich in good measure, and ends more coolly, the tannins having a crisp chalkiness. Authentic, sustained length Gigondas. It is a mite extracted, perhaps. 14°. 7,000 b. €15. From 2018. 2027-28  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

dark red, good sheen. The nose has latent reduction, with a solid, fat aroma of black berry beyond. There are prune fruit suggestions in a sunny context. The palate is also fat, with a rather pumped up feel to its bubble of fruit. There is a little knot of grainy, currently demanding tannin on the close, capable of absorbing. Decant this, and wait until 2018. 14°. 5,940 b. Bottled 21 March 2015. €15. 2026-28  Dec 2015  Previously Dec 2014 **(*) (bottling spring 2015) purple hue – lighter at the rim. There is a spicy note on the nose. This has a sweet attack, then becomes a bit hollow. It is dry, tough and chewy on the finish, and lacks refreshment value. 14°. 6,000 b. €14.50 export. From 2016. 2023-24  JL  Dec 2014

2012

dark Grenache red colour; The nose is rather handsome – there is a discreet but secure layer of raspberry fruit, and offers the chance of more variety and local ID to come forward, has red fruits at its heart. The palate attacks on local, traditional plum fruit, has a solid Grenache heart. The tannins push in, are just a shade dry. Traditional approach here, a wine for stews. The finish is a concern – it lies outside what has gone before. May settle after a winter in bottle and more time. Decant it. From mid-2014. Bottled Sept 2013. €14 at the cellars. 8,300 b. 2020-21 Dec 2013

2008 ()

bright, plum red robe. Indian tea, mint, yeast on the nose with red cherry fruit. Pine influence on the attack – this is a wine of grip and firm intent. Its fruit is soon overtaken by demanding tannins that have a dry steak in them. A scaled wine here, which has to soften its austere second half. There is front of the mouth acidity which jars, as well. From 2013 or so. 2019-20. Not sure. €8.50 ex cellars. July 2011

2006

pretty, black-tinted robe. Warm aroma that is nicely oily, wide and welcoming – plum, red stone fruits here. Even red berry fruit with some sweet spice elements; primary, but fair promise. Correct length, has life in it. Not that deep, the gras skates rather than gets involved. From mid-2009. To 2017. Jan 2008

2005 ()

dark plum-cherry colour; the bouquet has a nutty, biscuity top note, with some black fruit underneath – the fruit is a mix of plum and prune, and also has herb and licorice outcrops: it is good and breezy. The palate's black fruit comes with black pepper trimmings, and runs directly, with a clear, almost crisp feel. It ends on a bright, liberated note, with a peppery, touch of milk chocolate flavour. Well structured wine that needs to be put aside until late 2009 so its tannin can enter in. There is a little sweetness in this, and it can only move in a good direction. STGT in style. 2019-21 June 2008

2004 ()

2 bottles – 1st corked. 2nd bottle: mild red robe. Coffee, menthol notes in a bouquet with a quietly warm interior. The palate has a softly textured, spiced black fruit flavour, also ripe plum and prune with late scenting, licorice. A ripe style of wine with some advance in it already. There are a few late tannins, a bosky charge at the end. Fair length. I don't see this living that long. 2010-11 Dec 2006

2003

the robe is quite dark, but not young looking; soaked fruit nose – shows menthol and some thyme, is a bit bosky and stalky. Glycerol and gras lead the palate, with potency hovering. The taste is of black fruits, olives. Big style wine, hearty and grass roots and uneven. The aftertaste is dry. Raw stuff in many ways, with the hope being the passage of time. 2011-12 July 2005

2001 ()

mature plum colour, top is light. The bouquet is round, hovers between black fruit and secondary game airs. Raisin tart stage now – Garibaldi biscuits. There is spice in the palate fruit, comes with a dry tingle. Ageing now, and needs food, and drinking before late 2010. Meaty style wine, flavour of black fruits, prunes. Spiced aftertaste. 14.5°. To 2011. Nov 2007

1996

ruby rim to the red robe; the bouquet is brewed in nature, shows airs of tea and also some leaf mould. Try decanting this. The palate has a sappy roundness, with some advancing flavours. The generosity is fair here, but it is a bit too sweet to fully convince. It can develop further, though. 2009-11  April 1999