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The Wines

100% Roussanne (2002-03) at 310 metres, soft schist & gneiss soils, cool 2 day post pressing decantation, fermented at 16°C, raised 60-80% vat, 20-40% 3-4 year oak casks 9 months, lees stirred, filtered, first wine 2004, “drink with grilled sea bass, lobster, smoked salmon, mild goat cheese, or aperitif”, 3-4,000 b

2018

marked yellow robe; the bouquet is broad, not yet emerged, has a dried fruits air, a discreet line of roasted nuts. Air will help it. The palate is sturdy on the attack, carries density in every pore, is a manly St Jo, which needs time to come out of its firm shell. When it does, it will be stylish. There are pockets of exotic fruit in the flavour, suggesting Roussanne in the mix. It’s well structured, carries certainty in its delivery, ends on a note of damp wool, varnish. 13°. From mid-late 2020. 2028-30 Nov 2019

2017 ()

dark yellow robe, viscous appearance; an apricot-ginger duo lead the nose, the snap a good card to play in this sunny vintage, notes of cigarette ash also. The palate bears white plum flavours, with a citrus-lime touch before the finish. It has a little nerve, and the citrus angle extends it, providing some grip on the close. 13.1°. 100% Roussanne. 2024-26 Dec 2018

2015

full yellow colour. The nose is rich, not yet fully open, parades a roasted nuts, apricot aroma with a welter of depth and more variety to come. The palate is also rich, with cooked lemon, white peach in the flavour. The texture is smooth throughout, and there is inner strength to allow it to live well on its glycerol. It suggests stylish Roussanne (tasted blind) is running the show here, and it’s a bonny, balanced, true, STGT wine. 12.75°. 4,000 b. 80% steel vat. US$37. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014 ()

yellow robe, quite full. The nose is quiet, but rather stylish, for all that. There is a refined air of cooked lemon-lime, and a hint of aniseed. The palate bears cosy fruit, a flavour of peach, some honey and almond. This is suited to fish dishes, steamed fish, given its cool, precise delineation. The finish runs on a marmalade flavour, then a free moment. 13°. 100% Roussanne. 2021-22  Oct 2015 

2007 ()

pale yellow; honey with a small caramel note on the nose, and pretty apricot fruit. The palate has a tight, nutted white fruits flavour and a light honey approach. The length is OK – this is a low-key wine. To 2011. March 2009

2005 ()

interesting, varied nose – a little honey, white peach, touch of wax with butter and almond – is wide, too. There is good grip at the start of the palate, and this moves along well. Late hazelnut and apricot, with some flan in the taste. Drinking well now – nice with salads, cold chicken, grilled fish or aperitif. Has good length, is refined. Jan 2008

2004 ()

creamy, buttery nose, some underlying salt (tasted blind, no surprise to find it is Roussanne), displays the vintage clarity. Stylish start to palate, holds a savoury, well-established flavour, and is decisive on the finish. Good sinew and nerve run through it, and a salty thread, too. Some oak evident, cooked vanilla detectable. 2009-10 June 2006