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The Wines

80-90% Marsanne, 10-20% Roussanne, 80% from galet stone, clay-limestone soils at Pont de l’Isère (1987-88, southern zone), 20% from Gervans (1920, northern zone) fermented, raised 60-70% 2-3-4-year old 228-litre oak casks, 30-40% vat, (few years in mid-2000s was 30% oak, 70% vat) 7 months, malo completed, filtered, 6,000 b

2016

pale flint colour. The nose has an airborne style, rests on apple, light pear, pear skin, aniseed prominent, also hazelnut, licorice. The palate is breezy, salty, with Marsanne tang coming through, hazelnut. There’s discreetly firm grip on the close, some vinous texture there, the aftertaste grapey in all its youth. The flavour centres on white plum. This is grippy, tangy wine. 13°. To 2020 July 2017

2015

firm yellow robe, green tints. The bouquet is reserved, almost neutral: there is a note of white peach, flan, greengage, all subdued. The palate bears stylish gras, bounces along well, hits a rounded shape as it goes. There is joli abundance here, and it has the fat for chicken in sauce, fish in sauce, the fish such as plaice, hake. A note of aniseed on the finish is authentic. STGT Crozes blanc, nice and accurate. 2019-20 Oct 2016

2012

quite a bright yellow. Honeyed, apricot jam air, plus vanilla pod drifts, some richness and jam fruit tendencies in the bouquet. Its richness is enjoyable, and gives a true Crozes-Hermitage depth; it is up for traditional dishes, rich flavours, and would also do well with Japanese noodles, Thai cuisine, cheese. Orange tints and white strawberry appear towards the finish. The length is good, and there is a smoky, tobacco-style sign-off. 13°. €9.20 export, €18 at the cellars. 80% Mars, 20% Rouss, 60% cask, 40% vat. 2018-19  Nov 2013

 

2011 ()

shiny yellow, legs down the glass. Has a custard, crème patisserie aroma in the fashionably fat style, shows hazelnut, cooked apple within, along with salted sultana. The palate is also based on overt gras – it is thick, richly textured, and lengthens on its coating rather than any freshness. The flavour is nutted, but with today’s rain and low pressure, it is a wine on the back foot. Decant this. It has enough substance for sauced fish, risottos, mushroom pastas. Leave until late 2013. 13°. 2018  Nov 2012

2010 ()

minor green tints in its nice and shiny yellow robe. Pineapple-butter airs, but there is an alert aroma here, not heavily layered. It has a lime breeze, while after 2 hours breathing, it amplifies and becomes fatter. The palate starts with an orderly gras, its rich texture reaching forward. Nothing flashy, just a steady delivery of hazelnut and an apricot-pear flavour in a a balanced manner. A fine tune white Crozes that receives marks for style. It is very long, its balance is spot on, and there is a light late freshness. This has really good, subtle appeal, is very precise, no loose edges. Can be drunk solo, but many foods suggest themselves as well: Brie – lovely, but also fine fish such as sole, halibut, sea bream. 13°. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne this year. 2017-18 Nov 2011

2009

bright, pale yellow; honey, candy-bonbon air, with the drift of spring flowers. Flan, mild flavouring to this, has steady length. Fine for the aperitif – drinks roundly now. Touch of late grip. Everything is soft here. 13°. To 2012-13 July 2010

2008

yellow robe; rather neutral, bonbon sweets nose, lime, linden aroma with mild honey and butter. The palate also gives a candy flavour, ends on spice and banana. This is a hearty, in the here and now wine, wants to play. Has firm Marsanne at its core. Good with steamed scallops – helps the richness. Food best. 12.5°. 2012-13 Dec 2009

2007 ()

bright yellow robe; apple, baked fruit tart aroma that is wide and open, has a little spice and Marsanne hazelnut. The palate has a flan, buttery debut, ends with good grip, its length secure. The finish is successful – pretty late roundness followed by a welcome dried fruit and mineral sign-off. Nice, elegant wine suited for early drinking. 13°. 2011-12 Dec 2008 Previously June 2008 *** fresh air in the bouquet; there are glints of white fruit, honeysuckle, and it curves well beyond the outer freshness. The palate is overtly nutty, with a mid-palate that is quite fleshy. This persists OK, and does fine as an aperitif. There is a stable, low profile richness in this. The finish is rounded. 13°. To 2011. Bottled 2 weeks ago. June 2008

2006

(1/2 bot) yellow tints in the robe; buttery, easy flow nose – shows melted butter. The palate is similar, is pretty tight-knit, but has a good foundation, is rich enough. It extends quietly, has a grainy finish, with wee amounts of oak there. Nice length, a wine for food, has late grip. To 2012. Jan 2008

2005 ()

pronounced yellow; melted butter aroma, with a soft lime top note and banana in the background. Ripe, full palate with fair acidity – I sense some oak lending support. It holds up quite well – its richness is spread along the palate, with Marsanne typicité, a smidgin of bitterness late on. Some end chew. It's ripe and ready now, but can tick along and vary with age. 2010-11 Dec 2006

2003

live, broad bouquet, white fruits with substance. Dried fruits quite tight right now, some buttery flavour, good weight - is nicely full. Touch of oak. Has made progress, and settled down since its more raw, potent earlier days. 2011 Sept 2004 Previously **(*) oily aroma, quite charged. Palate mixes brewed up later-picked crop and oak. Works on power and scale. Oak gives finish some punch.

2002

exotic, oaked, pineapple nose; tropical fruit, some fat, oak end. Can gain flesh. More Roussanne than usual since no Grives blanc.

2001 ()

pretty, delicate bouquet. Suavely nutty. Fine, good length and sinew. 2008-09.

1998 ()

floral, fair freshness on aroma, nice; clean-cut flavour, medium-weight, stylish and elegant. Well-knit.