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The Wines

Viognier (mid-to-late 1960s Viognier) 65% from Vernon at Condrieu, 25% from Paton at Malleval, 10% from La Roncharde at Condrieu, granite & loess soils, fermented, raised 50% new, 50% 1-2 year 228-litre Allier & Tronçais oak casks 12 months, light lees stirring, malo completed, filtered, up from 3,000 b to 4,500 b

2015 ()

(2 year 228-litre cask, bottling Sept 2016) rich yellow robe. The nose is reserved, has inner strength, flirts with exotic fruits, banana, also vanilla. The palate expresses soaked white cherries, with caramel, orange-lime marmalade notes. This is full, obvious resilient wine with good heart. It lengthens steadily. Decant it. 14°. To 2022 July 2016

2011

pale yellow, quite bright. There is a fresh tangerine lift above the more nutty content on the nose, with a peach-apricot jam fruit and banana foundation. The palate displays careful richness, spreads out its wares with precision, and continues on a pretty fresh length. Just about ready, can be drunk solo, or with refined flavours. A Condrieu of good style and elegance – I like its balance and harmony. True example of refined, poised Condrieu. It keeps going, the depth is nice, and a little late oak comes through. 13°. 2017-19  Nov 2012

2010

pale yellow, shiny robe, quite an oily aspect. Clear, lightly mineral nose of quality and charm, has a ring of decision in it, underscored by ripe, rather oily subdued white fruit, a certain gleam of power. Oak-power-banana in an intrinsic abundance. Pear fruit, and a full delivery of it, on the palate. Very thorough, has a lot of heart. It is all concentrated in mid-palate for now – time will help it to loosen and extend wide across the palate. There is some tannin lining the finish, rendering it firm. Has an oaked sign-off. Decant this broad wine. From mid-late 2012. 13.5°. 2019-20 Nov 2011

2009 ()

yellow colour; oak and brewed airs, cooked apricot and pear. The palate has a supple, generous nature, is nicely full and sustained. The flavour resembles flan and apricot. The length is good – this is a thorough wine, with local ID. Can do as an aperitif wine – is more refined than many 2009s. To 2016. July 2010

2006 ()

bang on yellow colour; has a wide, elegant aroma – this shows the Viognier on the “steel”, rather than coming from the plush trail of aromas. There is flan, some high tone, cooked banana and floating spice as well. Has a vanilla pod taste on the attack, and is a wine with good energy through it. It moves along with greater freedom than many 2006s, and ends on a clear note. The stone fruit is well-cut and this is a steely, but refined wine with honey wisps on the aftertaste. It would make a smart aperitif, or could be served with pork, for instance – a dish that would suit its acidity. 13.5°. To 2013. Dec 2008 £23.75 per bottle in bond