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The Wines

70% Grenache (1930s+), 30% Syrah (mid-1970s) from Les Grès, Les Pendants, La Longe, La Ponche, 80% destemmed, 3 week vinification, pumping overs, aged 1-year 228-litre Allier & Tronçais oak casks 12, then 45 hl large oak barrel 6 months, unfined, unfiltered, organic wine

2016

black-tinted, dark robe. There’s a roll of fat blackberry fruit on the nose, which has a savoury depth, darkness, a little mystery, plenty of core. The palate runs with a free handout of sleek matter, sparky black fruit along its trail, blueberry prominent. The finish brings in some garrigue, herbs influences. This has character, and will gradually come together, the finish still powdered and a little rocky. 14.5°. From late 2019. 2030-32 Feb 2018

2004 ()

steady red robe; has a nutty, rather upright aroma that is still finding its way; the fruit is obscure for the present, is roasted and there are airs such as hung meat and baked stones alongside. There is an early clamp of dark fruit on the palate, with the garrigue plateau baked and herbal influence in the lead, followed by a sweeter note of black prune fruit, herbs and black pepper. This holds the sinew and power of Vacqueyras from the plateau, plus the clarity of the 2004 vintage. It can expand along the second half of the palate by around 2011. A good, muscular wine that ends on a fresh, minty vigour and a tang of licorice. The length is good, and a mix of raspberry and toasting brings up the farewell. 14.5°. 2018-20 Dec 2008 £11.50 per bottle in bond