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The Wines

80-90% Grenache (1950s+), 15-20% Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, aged new, 1-year 228-litre oak casks 19-21 months, unfiltered, 9,000 b

2012 ()

(casks, bottling July 2014) dark red. This has a becoming, welcoming nose with a soft, floral leaning, a sweet centre: this holds Châteauneuf-du-Pape richness, sun, roundness, soaked plums. The palate is likeable, tasty; the black fruit is discreetly full and persistent, the ensemble with its tannins successful. It is stylish overall, is not a Whizz Bang, Over the Top offering, has shades and nuances. Its late freedom is appealing, is calm and stately, nothing done in a hurry. From 2016. 14.5°. 90% Gren, 5% Syr, 5% Cins. 2027-29  Nov 2013

2004

full, plum red colour; the top air of oak with sweet date and raisin is sturdy – this expresses mulled, rather than fresh, fruits, and doesn`t at all come from the elegant, floral school – it is wide and dense. It is also sturdy on the palate – this is a rather retro style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It has a sweet theme through it, but the fruit could be accused of lacking cut. It would go down well in the shires of England and chez les Suisses. It ends on a full, rather weighty note. Less oak raising would equal improved access to the terroir with this wine. The length is OK. 15°. 2022-24 Dec 2008 £22.92 per bottle in bond

1999

dull red with a top of ruby that shows advance. Has an animal, sweet raisin and pepper aroma, spice and smoke and some floral airs accompanying it – it is open and on the go now, and reflects Châteauneuf. The palate carries the vintage's clear fruit, with nerve and sinew emerging towards the finish, which is decisive. The red fruit comes in a baked manner, with tannins and the residue of the oak bordering it, then the usual Tardieu-Laurent tar aftertaste. It has held together well, but the sweet purity of Châteauneuf-du-Pape fruit can never parade itself here on the palate given the way it has been aged. Not a wine for the Rhône purists. 14°. 2022-24 Dec 2008