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The Wines


maturing red robe, with a touch of rd tile in the top colour; has a hang dog, funky aroma – “deep in the woods one day, I stumbled across this animal (mort, vous savez) . . .” This is markedly reduced, so tripe decant and drink three hours later. There are also rose and Dundee raisin cake aromas, while the hang dog side of it comes and goes with the air. The palate is brighter than the nose would suggest – it holds raspberry and damson fruit, which is wrapped by an outer of smoky, “dark”, slightly tannic coating. This wine shows a limestone snap, as if high vines are a good part of its source, and ends on a lead pencil clarity. Taut, and not organised, it is very much in transition now. From late 2009. 2017-18 Dec 2008 £16.25 per bottle in bond