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The Wines

95-97% Syrah, 3-5% Viognier (down from 10% mid-2000s), young southern sector vines, Combard (Syrah 2002-2008), Coteaux de Tupin (Syrah late 1980s-early 1990s), destemmed, aged 5% new, 95% 1-4 year 300 litre oak casks 23 months, unfined, unfiltered first wine 1997, 8,000 b

2017

1) **** (the lower slopes, sugars, malo completed) red robe. There is steady depth in the nose, rows of red berries lined up, inner sweetness. The palate holds engaging fruit, tasty, generous, with tannins that have a firm couch. Grounded wine. 17+ years. 2) ****(*) (Combard, sugars completed, malo occurring now) the nose is broad, has a steady intensity of red fruits. This is close-knit, concentrated, holds packed in red fruits, with a late tang of iron, mineral. Proper structure here. 23 years. 3) **** (Coteaux de Tupin, sugars still fermenting) dark red. Blackberry, elder berry, darkly fruited aroma, raspberry luiqueur also. The is silken, holds good gras, is stylish, true to Tupin, a spherical wine. It kicks on again before the finish, is long. 21 years. Nov 2017

2016

1) **** (Combard, 3 year 228-litre cask) fine red. Raspberry liqueur, free wheeling aroma that is curvy and appealing. This has quiet inner strength beyond its musky, sultry perfumed red fruit; it gains intensity towards the finish. Good, interesting. 18 years. 12.87°. “I found it a bit diluted post vinification, but it has been gaining, has more complexity,” Yves Gangloff. 2) ***(*) (Coteaux de Tupin, new 228-litre cask) red robe. There’s a singe of oak with red cherries inside the bouquet. The palate also has inner steel, muscle, with red fruits, lozenges present, and a notably firm close. This is chunky in its pure way, the tannins inside are tight. 13.1°. 17-19 years. Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 **** 1) (Combard, steel vat) ***(*) dark red colour. The nose is bright, has verve, sweet herbs, thyme. The palate is soft and squeezy, is plush, holds well woven tannins. The length is good. This is good heart for the wine. “It was very ripe,” Yves Gangloff. 18-20 years. 2) (Coteaux de Tupin, steel vat) ****(*) dark red. There is nice crunch on the nose, which is deep and promising. The palate is good and tight, rather muscular, and also holds rocky, powdered, serious tannins. It is long, too. There is good gras at its centre. This has potential. 21 years. Oct 2016

2015 ()

dark red. The nose gives red berries with oak and dustiness, sweet herbs. The fruit lies low. This has good, sure depth, is very much for the future. The palate has a solid debut, holds closely sealed red fruit, even stern content, a Futon style couch. It ends compactly, closed, with only a small issue of juice on the late moments. Decanting advised. Bottled Sept 2017. From 2020-21 2037-39 Nov 2017 Previously Oct 2016 ****(*) 1) (Combard, 4-year 228-litre cask, 100% Syrah (early 2000s) **** dark robe. Inky, chocolate, black raisin airs show on the nose – but it has some elegance, has black cherry in the mix. There is good density on the palate, which is close-knit, well packed in, comes with good and firm length. It gives an image of concentration, with an all-important level of freshness to close it. This is sturdy. From 2020. 2034-36 2) (Coteaux de Tupin, 2 year 228-litre oak cask, 95% Syrah, 5% Viognier) ****(*) dark robe. Grilling, inner strength, concerted black berry and a compressed jam aspect feature on the nose, which will be bounteous. This is rich - it’s a very rich and secure foundation for the wine. There is a very good line of coolness towards the finish. This is good, a firm wine. 2037-39 OVERALL ****(*) the Coteaux de Tupin will be the prime foundation for the wine, with its ripe, sealed content, backed by a similar fitting Combard. 2035-38 Oct 2016

2014

½ bottle: quite a dark red robe. There is a blueberry and cool start to the nose, which is lightly grilled, has some weight of raspberry inside. It holds your attention. The palate gives stylish content, is already starting to flourish on red berry with spicing, the fruit coulis or mulled in style. Lots of perfume and rose petal are liberally distributed. It ends with a gentle increase in assertion, depth, the tannins round and compact. There is plenty of sweet, fluid matter before the finish. From 2018. 2027-29 Oct 2016

2013 ()

(casks, bottling Sept 2015) dark red. Perky, open, almost flashy nose, one of really good vigour and appeal, bundles of red berries available – this is a veritably good start. The palate starts well, presents a run of smoky red berries with closely inset tannins that have a lissom elegance. There is a touch of flowers on the second half. Charm in the glass here – this is stylish a go-go. It is a wine for more instant drinking than some – it will offer max pleasure. From mid-2017. 2026-28  GB £282/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012

the two parts tasted from cask: 1) (Coteaux de Tupin, 50% of the wine, 1-year 228-litre oak cask) **** good, dark red; the nose is mildly balanced, a thick layer of fruit with oak close to it, airs of blackcurrant and small black berries. The palate is shapely, a gourmand black fruit lies at its heart; it extends with a sure hand and firmly on its fruit, but is complete and fine, has good continuity and balance. Good style here. 12-14 years. 2) (Combard, 50% of the wine, 2-year 228 litre oak cask) **** dark red. Winning roll of black fruit in an open book bouquet that has depth enough for a notion of red meat, grilled airs. The palate has a rather muscular start, a tenacious style, provides a good HQ for the assembled wine. There is a good residue of fruit on the finish. OVERALL **** promising, good mix of flair and depth. From mid-late 2015. 2026-28  Nov 2013

2011 ()

½ bottle: quite a dark red. The nose hums with blackberry jam, shows touches of smoke and date, mulled fruits, persists attractively. The attack is rolled up, carries gras and roundness, the second half of the palate perfumed with violet and spice. It ends on those notes with a gain in minerality. It is shaping up well, is a pretty wine, the finish is very expressive. 13°. 2021-23  Nov 2013

2010

1) (Combard, 33% of wine, 2002-2010 Syrah, used cask, 12°, the lowest degree of all sites) **** dark robe at centre; well-set nose, wide across the glass and solid, rather beefy. Gusty, full – this is some vintage with young vines producing this depth. Aromatic towards the finish. An intense pocket of tannin on a robust finish. Life of 13 yrs, from 2014-15. 2) (Coteaux de Tupin, 33%, late 1980s-mid-1990s Syrah, used cask) **** nice bright red; peppery, spinal grip nose, has a fresh air, shows black fruit entwined with light violet. Crisp black fruit on palate; tannins evident on the final third – are ripe, but firm. Sinew in this upright wine, from 2015. 14 years. 3) (Mollard, early 1990s, used cask) ***(*) dark plum colour; earthy airs with raspberry fruit, ripe red berries sprinkled with light black pepper and tar. Typical palate – there is violet, licorice in the black fruit which is cutting, decisive, Ends tack!, comme ça, crisp and no nonsense. Good length. From 2015. OVERALL **** more intricate wine than the sunny, more obvious and robust 2009. May well age stop-start, and be mineral in style around 2018-19. To 2023-25. June 2011

2009

this will be assembled next week, then bottled in July, so the three plots tasted separately 1) (Combard, 33% of wine, 2002-2010 Syrah, used cask) ***(*) quite full red; supple, black fruits air, jam sweetness here. The palate is scented, a sensation that lasts all though it. Attractive, textured, has a nice group of tannin at the end. Charming wine, life of 10 yrs. “It is very perfumed, Burgundian,” Y.G. 2) (Coteaux de Tupin, 33%, late 1980s-mid-1990s Syrah, used cask) ***(*) quite dark; wide, rather beefy nose that is good and compact. The palate opens up well, offers black fruit with a spring in its step, gathers tannins on the finish, has more to it than a 2007, for instance. Finish of black jam, prune. A solid contributor, 12 years. 3) (Mollard, early 1990s, used cask) **** quite full robe; broad nose with wavy black fruit, a good, tight and aromatic show here, will be more in 2014. Palate `s black fruit has violet, southern zone and local nature; the tannins are supple but present, come along well, good quality and add movement and style to the wine. OVERALL **** the Gangloff style comes through – unforced, aromatic, giving wines with steady, ripe tannic support. To around 2021-22. There will be a full strut to this around 2015-17. June 2011

2007 No Rating

(cask, Tupin) pretty fruit in this, graceful lines. The malo is fermenting as I taste. June 2008

2006

2 casks: Cask 1 (5 year oak, the Tupin part, 8% Viognier, Syrah 1993-1996) ***(*) red-plus colour; blackberries with a little simmering or mulling in them, has some cards up its sleeve. Pretty fruit all the way through. Cask 2 (2 year oak, Combard, 40% of the wine) **(*) full, quite dark red; smoky, bacon and black fruit aroma. Dark fruits, some tar, more rustic than Tupin. Muscular on the finish, chewy there. 12 years. June 2008

2005

sound red plum colour, quite full. There is small evolution on the nose, with some mulled fruits and raspberry jam of some delicacy. The palate fruit is still on a sinewed path, and some gaminess is entering it. It starts with black fruits and violet in the early taste, and has a vinous content but its tannins are a bit demanding. Is a bit dry at present towards the finish. The length is pretty good, but the elements are not yet as one. From 2010. 2020-22. “I find it is a bit tough now – the sort of wine that is better when drunk on Day 2, for instance,” Yves Gangloff. June 2008 Previously Nov 2006 ***(*) (casks) dark robe; ripe, savoury fruit aroma of griottes- soaked cherries, with an ample style – some gibier-game in the making here. Mature, long hang fruit nature on the palate – means it has a red jam start and a fleshy texture until the tannins kick in. Supple, fleshy wine, in the domaine style. Open now, is opulent. Esp 2009 on. 2017-20 Nov 2006

2004 ()

half bottle, bottled four days ago - peppery, black fruit aroma with an upright shape. Red jam on palate, a bright texture in the raspberry/hedge berry flavour. Some end richness, bonny roundness, length good. 2015-16 June 2006 "It was very aromatic when in cask - we picked the 2004 Syrah very ripe," Y Gangloff. Previously Nov 2004 *** (cask from Le Combard, 8% Viognier) gentle aroma, lightly floral with red fruit. Attractive fruit on palate, wine with life and clarity. A rather tender, but classic vintage. 2012-14 Nov 2004

2003 ()

half bottle - black jam colour; thorough, scented, red fruits nose with a smoky touch, and has some leather and pebbly stone fruit rather than being too over cooked. Solid, tight texture on palate, the flavour is like cooked meat or English Bovril (beef stock in a pot). Length is good, it is nicely structured and clear to the taste, but its sinewed finale veers towards dryness. An autumn or winter drinking wine. STGT qualities here. Esp 2007 on. 2013-15 June 2006

2001 ()

full robe. Elegant, floating bouquet, satisfying style and appeal. Fragrant theme continues on the palate, a wine of lovely round shape, and good persistence. 2012-14 March 2005 Previously *** elegant, medium-weight wine, tar and tidy richness on end, some pepper on aroma. drink esp around 2006-07.

2000

fair blackberry/pepper in a reduced bouquet; suave, juicy wine, berried fruit floats along well. Fruit is ripe, quite long, some end tar. Friendly drinking, good in restaurants. 2008-10