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The Wines

65% from the top of Bonnette, 35% from the top of Chéry at Condrieu, 300-litre oak cask fermented at 20-23°C, raised 25-30% new, 70-75% 1-2 year 300-litre oak casks 10-12 months, malo completed, 9-11,000 b

2016 ()

fine yellow robe. There’s good clarity, gunflint with pear skin, apricot and tangerine in the aroma, has a direct thrust, is well upbeat. The palate holds crisp, fine content, with gradual gras coming forward; it is smoky and well channelled, has much grip, ending coolly. This has real good definition, a line of spine through it. The close is on pear, is tangy, rather like a Marsanne wine. It has delicate but sure length, is a wine of great finesse, pitter patter it goes. 15°. “It’s a year that speaks; drink it from 2019. The proportion of new oak is 40%+ this year – usually it’s 25-30%. I bought new casks for the 2015 vintage, then couldn’t use them because there was so little wine,” Yves Gangloff. From late 2018. 2029-31 Nov 2017

2015

fine yellow robe. This has a yum yum nose – lime, orange peel, gives lovely variety and keen interest, is a pleasure. There is strength on the palate, comes with close-knit content, is compact, sealed. There is a stewed fruits, compote, flavour. The nose doesn’t announce the palate; it keeps going steadily on pear and apricot. There is nothing open in its fabric for now. “It will live five to six years, easily; it’s under its bottling now,” Yves Gangloff. Only 6,000 bottles this year. Bottled 20 Sept 2016. 15.2°. 2023-24 15 Oct 2016

2012

bottled 1 month ago, early Oct 2013. ½ bottle: yellow robe. There is nice luxury in the nose, which is creamy, buttery, shows notes of flan, coated pear and a note of licorice. The attack is rich but controlled, bears white fruits, a compote of those. It tightens slightly, its depth genuine all through. A wine for la table. Has an attractive, round ending. Rich wine; one more winter will suit it. 14°. 33 hl/ha this year, a good crop. To 2020.  Nov 2013

2010

(tank) bottling tomorrow, ie 1 month earlier this year because 2011 seems so precocious and Yves will need the space for the new wine: quite bright, mild yellow; good, brisk nose, classic Viognier, comes with wafts of oak, white raisin. The front fruit is pear. The early palate is oily and bountiful, in contrast to the nose, grips lightly at the end. Has a slow, easy depth, is not pushy, the length is good, and it signs off with glow. In fact has 5 gm of residual sugar, is 15.4° so the glow is explained. “We harvested in the last week of September, against 20 September in 2009 – the vineyard ripening was very slow,” Y.G. To 2017-18 end June 2011

2007 ()

3 casks. Cask 1 (1 year oak, Chéry) **(*) tight, nutted aroma, has weight, not yet out and about. Rich palate at heart, wears its gloss on its sleeve. Still 7-8 gm residual sugar on this (Yves uses no cultured yeasts). Cask 2 (1 year oak, Chéry) ***(*) wide and persistent aroma, banana to the fore. Pretty richness and stone fruits, a real road runner with lovely fruit, a hint of alcohol. Pretty wine. Cask 3 (new oak, Bonnette) ***(*) hint of white flowers, sprinkle of honey in this stylish aroma. Very textured, has a refined interior, is promising. A mix of charm and power. June 2008

2006 ()

mid yellow colour; pretty and bright nose – ripe grapes in the aroma, a version of stewed pear, a bit of damp wool, citronelle and iris. The palate is in harmony with the nose – there is a good sequence between them. It runs elegantly until a wider, more punchy finale, and moves towards a heated zone. A wholesome wine with attitude (is 15°). The length is OK. It gains weight as it goes, and the aftertaste is clear. Lobster, sauced shellfish, fine fish with this – turbot and so on. 2012-13 June 2008

2005

some yellow in the robe; toasted, floating top note to bouquet – is quite rich underneath, with a mix of brown sugar and ripe apricot and pear. Richly textured palate with a discernible thread of alcohol running through it. Is a bit charged up and that effect flattens the freshness of the fruit. Lacks the domaine’s usual grace, with cake and raisin, stout elements in it. Has a brown sugar finale. 15° on the label. To 2010. Nov 2006, tasted two separate occasions.

2004

mineral flecked bouquet, reveals pear and a wispy fragrance of great charm, this is a beautiful aroma. Buttery, banana flavour with grip in the wine - it holds together well. Rich, lingering finale, a primrose-pineapple aftertaste if that is feasible. Great is its refinement. 2010-11 June 2006 Previously Nov 2005 sample from Chéry (cask) pretty, stylish bouquet. Balanced palate, good length. Malo not yet done. Bonnette (casks) elegant white fruit bouquet when not new oak. Well-directed palate, has width, length. Pretty full. "There was a lot of freshness in 2004 - the weather was dry and the crop very healthy, we only had 5% botrytis," Yves Gangloff

2003

(magnum) the nose is full, with baked tart, cooked pear airs. It is rich and persistent on the palate, and particularly impressive is how the richness holds up on the late palate. To 2015. March 2009 Previously June 2006 ***(*) interesting re-visit of this powerful wine: dense, wrapped up, reserved bouquet - pinapple, banana, pear skin - but can open and express more with time, has gone a bit to sleep. Big and rich palate without being open or plush - now has an envelope of reserve. Some end heat that shows its degree (no change there). With the air out comes the taste of pineapple chunks, and the aftertaste gets a little empty. Revert in 2007. "I think this can live," Y.Gangloff June 2006 Previously **(*) very light gold glints; vigorous bouquet, spiced tones, firm fruit, light flan or caramel. Sturdy palate, shows cooked fruit, beefy wine. Marmalade, some burnt touches on finish. Tiring in dimension for me, alcohol is evident. Note lost 75% of crop - frost on Côte Bonnette, 15°

2002

tight aroma; fair stone fruit, mid-weight wine.

2001 ()

soft gold hue to the robe; ripe and rich nose with old Viognier damp wool hovering behind the pear fruit, coupled with a roast nuts, maybe peanuts, aspect and then spice as the air works on it. Pretty richness on the palate, there is a neat ball of flavour – apricot/pear, with some flan late on as it rounds out. Holds a good mineral core and some great coming and going with the air – a lot going on (has been decanted). As the air and warmth move into it, the nose becomes very generous. Ample, and yet restrained – in the character of the vintage. 2012-13 June 2007 Previously **** really ample bouquet, custard/spice and lime; big, broad wine - again, lime tart and spice. Ends with a chewy mix of richness and oak, and a white pepper aftertaste with some heat in it. Has blossomed with time.

1999

start of second phase on nose - very ripe peaches, damp wool; well-mannered wine - full flavour of mandarin/orange with crystallised fruits ending and a chewy finale encouraged by the oak. Can live until 2013.