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The Wines

50-65% Grenache (1930s), 25-50% Mourvèdre, 0-10% Syrah (1939) from sand and compacted sand soils on Les Bédines (N-E), Pignan (N-E), Guigasse (N-E), hand harvested, part destemmed, tronconic oak vat-vinified 30-35 days, cap punching, part vat emptying/refilling, aged 30% new, 70% 4-year old 550-litre casks 15-18 months, filtered, first wine 1998, organic wine, 3,200-6,500 b

2016

(casks) good lustre in its dark red colour. The bouquet is inky, deep, settles on floral, mulberry and blackberry fruit notes, some soaked fruits inspired by the Grenache; it has an engaging freedom. The palate swishes along well, bearing raspberry fruit and fresh tannins into a clear, even cool close. It’s a good ensemble, has a seamless delivery, and a tasty sign-off. It has great length, and isn’t “too much” – thanks to the Mourvèdre, which has played a winning hand this year across the appellation. 15.5°. 6,000 b. 55% Gren, 45% Mourv. 15.5°. 2036-39 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(casks) dark red robe. The nose is broad and backward, a hunky do as it stands. There is a baked side to it, with some hidden black raisin, black fruit lying low. The palate holds suave richness, with a textured, wavy style. It dumbs down on the finish, which is a shade dry and which produces some crisp, chiselled tannins. This is still very young, and only gives clues to its identity. Allow until 2020. It should have expanded on the late stages by then. There is a degree of extraction in its make-up. 60% Gren, 40% Mourv. 2030-32 Sept 2016 GB £795 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk info@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203  478 7376 

2014

(casks) clear red robe. The nose is attractive, with a heart of raspberry fruit, and a natural, garrigue-like accompaniment. The palate gives red fruits, small and concentrated redcurrants at base. This is fresh and marked by herbs as it closes. An attractive package, with local imprint. It has implicit guts, but also precision in its detail. Possible sandy soils origin, hence the clarity and a murmur of warmth the fruit towards kirsch, as it ends. €65. 60% Gren, 40% Mourv. From 2019. 2028-30 £725 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk GB £288/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015 

2013 ()

(casks) medium to full crimson. Red berry and vanilla airs on the nose, the oak apparent but not overstated. Oak also shows on the palate, where it is just a little more excessive as the wine is in the full flush of taking on its oak, bringing sucrosity and a slightly drying finish. Otherwise, this is fine and digestible in style. At the moment it is slightly out of kilter. From 2017. Lower Gren than usual – 50%, with 50% Mourv, low quantity at 3,200 b. 2027-29 JL  Oct 2014

2012

(casks, bottling March 2014) bright, decent red robe. There are ripe airs on the nose – these bring in date, black raisin, some prune-fig. Sweet crop has been harvested by design to take the wine up a level on that score. A broad bouquet that has “beef”, thus. This has a compact, muscular style with a sweet centre – it repeats the ripe dose of the nose. This is the 1990s retro style, where sucrosity is lauded, unfortunately, and so any sense of mineral is seized upon as an oasis of elegance. The 16° is well explained. The finale is jam-like, all rolled up. The fruit surges quietly, laps away at the shore in rich fashion. There is a wee ping of mineral on the aftertaste. From late 2016. 16°. 60% Gren, 40% Mourv, 6,500 b this year. £700 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2027-29  Nov 2013

2011

(casks) dark red. The bouquet isn’t yet sorted out – it shows reduction, red fruit gum sweets, is earthy, has some pong, is fat and primary, sweet, with few sideshows for the moment. The palate delivers scented red fruit that is mixed with a perfumato, pot-pourri dried flowers flavour. This is all about the Grenache on the palate, has a sympa build through it, a correct couch of matter in support on the finish. The aftertaste reflects herbs, flintiness. It is all in a deep, round ball. The palate is weighty, sweet overall. From 2015. 16°. Just 4 stars. 2027-29  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(casks) dark, shiny robe. Sleekly fruited, Morello black cherry aroma with wispy coffee notes, cafezinho do Brasil, soaked black cherries, plus a curious note of anchovy, a saline air that is unusual. The palate has a clean living nature, with precise, crystalline black fruit at its heart. It still exists on its early acidity, and will extend its gras over time towards the finish. Shapely tannins line its sides through to the finale. From 2015. 2029-31 Dec 2011

2007 ()

(casks) dark red with black tints in the robe; has a broad, wholesome bouquet – beef stock and deep blackberry or black cherry, with a little spice. The palate delivers blackberry fruit with an earthy inlay, delivered in the wrapping of a smooth texture. It is a supple, oily wine with a sweet thread through it. There are polished late tannins and oak – like many wines this year. The length is sound, This is going to be tasty and gracious – it is very sleek and modern, not local. From 2011. 2024-25 Nov 2008

2006

(casks) red colour with some black in it; compact, prune and black fruits nose that is broad; has a little chocolate and raisin, the Christmas cake with rum and raisins in it, coffee and cocoa – a pretty big presence. Mulberry flavour, the fruit has nuance and its texture is oily, without being excessive. Runs with some peppery drive, and ends towards a chocolate, rich raisin tone. Is “big”, but does not really show that. Rich heart, with a local feel. From 2010. 2021-23 Nov 2007

2005 ()

(pre-bottle) dark, black cherry colour. Really tight bouquet – intense black fruit, no chinks of light. Rich, smooth interior to palate, with marked oak flanks. Rich, still reticent core. A wine to explore around 2010 on. Black plums with a definite ripeness about them here. Mineral-tea tints at the end. 2023-25 Nov 2006

2004 ()

quite dark; cooked plum aroma that is scented, floral with some late bite on its top note. Nice, broad and generous start, carries red fruits with a juicy feel. Rich and open. Oak needs 2 years, but is nicely toasted, well selected. Plenty here, beau wine. Good length. 2023-25 “I suggest it is opened at least 1 hour ahead,” Sylvie Pouizin-Vacheron Nov 2006 Previously Oct 2006, London ***(*) bright, dark black-red colour; streaky, potent aroma, with an international cherry fruit thrust. Clear, streamlined fruit with some sinew in it. Has a richness that can develop. Big style by design. The flavour has some licorice, the end shows oak. Leave until 2009. 2019-21