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The Wines

60% Grenache, 40% Syrah from galet stone covered soils, part destemmed, 2-3 week vinification, pumping overs, aged new 600-litre oak casks 8-12 months, filtered, 2,400 b

2017

deep, black-tinted robe. The bouquet rides an ample wave of ripe black berry fruit, jam, with black olives attached, is a southern entry door. It will vary well as it ages. The palate is also weighty, layered, profound, with flavours of black cherries, Morello, and a smooth depth all through. The tannins bring an additional couch towards the finish, so it ends with shape, on the ground. There is good, wavy fruit in this authentic Châteauneuf. 15°. 2,400 b. 60% Gren, 40% Syr. €39.50. From mid-2021. 2038-40 Oct 2018

2013 ()

fairly deep purple-crimson colour. There is a little dusting of vanilla oak on the nose, but also a depth of fruit behind; there are plum, cherry and leather notes. Supple fruit on the attack is matched by fine, fresh tannins. The finish is bright and clean. The accent is on purity of fruit and finesse rather than power. Harmonious wine. From 2016. 2026-27 JL Oct 2014

2010

bottled already – swift! Has been on sale since October 2011. Simple, unadorned plum red, spritz visible. Has a halfway house air – partly soaked and locked up, something of the hang dog in it. There are airs of raspberry and light prune, but the bouquet is on a mechanical footing, a touch contrived, stiff. There is a currently austere red cherry, marzipan note. The palate is similar to the nose: its fruit is giving, fleshy, but it is fenced in by a stiff overcoat, as if it could have experienced longer raising and also riper grapes. It ends on that nutty, oaked, stiff note. Decant this, but I am not sure it can truly find a harmony. From late 2013. 14°. Darned expensive: €38 at the domaine. 2023-24 Dec 2011

2007

dark red, purple robe; brooding nose, brooding fruit, with honey, toffee implicit. The palate fruit is gummy, as if its raising is on top now – it suggests work in oak, the malo in oak, which I find renders the fruit less “sparkling”. Its texture is largely rich, its length sound. Elegant wine that is rather spotless – more soul, please, Vicar. From 2011. 2023-26 Nov 2008