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The Wines

50% Grenache blanc (late 1970s-late 1980s, early-late 1990s), 15% Clairette (late 1960s, mid-1980s), 15% Bourboulenc (late 1960s), 10% Viognier (1997-98), 10% Roussanne (1997-98) from sandy, clay traces, slightly north-facing soils at Courthézon, 80% vat fermented with 20% Viognier, Roussanne 2-3 year 228-litre oak casks fermented, raised 4-5 months, lees stirred a little, malo can be completed, 8-18,000 b

2015

(vat/casks) yellow robe. The nose has a discreet intensity, a pear, cooked lemon and compote of fruits with a little saltiness. The palate is full and flowing, really covers the ground, has graceful virtues. This is great, a lovely table wine for a wide range of dishes, including sauces. The white fruits come with notes of aniseed (which suggests Clairette) and honeysuckle (Roussanne, perhaps) – tasted blind. From 2017. 2023-25  June 2016 

2014

pale yellow robe. Pear, apricot flesh aroma that doesn’t prolong that far. The palate holds a low level of white fruit, and passes through briefly. The finish is quiet. Aperitif, or salads with this. Very light wine. 13°. Has risen to 18,000 b, nearly double the usual. €10. Bottled Aug 2015. To 2017  Oct 2015

2013 ()

pale yellow, green tints and legs visible on the robe. The nose is stylish, nice and deep – there are melon, guava, light pear airs, with a smokiness. This is agreeable, fleshy table wine; it holds joli gras richness, has a smooth texture and feel. It is a good quality Côtes blanc, above average; I like its fine acidity. The exit is tender, rather floral. Shows what a good white vintage 2013 is. “It has some chewy depth, is a good drink for the chums,” Christophe Sabon. 13°. 2019-20  March 2015

2012 ()

yellow robe. Peach, cooked and rather “high” fruits that have a southern ripeness, aromas of white fruits compote. The palate runs with enjoyable gras and squeezy fruits such as apricot, with nuttiness. It is a genuine wine best suited to la table. It holds fine tune freshness and tangy grip on the finish. The aftertaste glows. 13.5°. To 2018 May 2016

2011 ()

yellow robe. Creamy, peach-floral aroma. Attractive wine that works on a smooth texture, holds good gras and a fluid roll of fruit, pursued by a fine dot of acidity and greater tangerine-like freshness. Lovely fat on the palate, then aniseed cut on the finish. Good style and local feel for its category. It is showing well now. To 2016  Oct 2013 Previously Feb 2012 ***(*) flinty yellow. There is a “high” tendency on the nose, with a lime-mandarin, ripe fruit underlay that also involves pear. Good depth, good amount here; the well-judged nose sets up interest in the wine. The palate is attractive and interesting, yes: it bears a mixed flavour of dried fruits, wax, honey, ending on fennel, a good snap of that, then another honeycomb moment. Has a long menthol and verveine (verbena) aftertaste. STGT wine, faithful to its place. 13.5°. €9.50. I would buy. Bottled last month. 2015-16 Feb 2012

2009 ()

steady yellow; ripe lime aroma that is nice and direct, comes with breezy, salty touches. As it breathes, a buttery, sound underlay and warmth in it are revealed. The palate holds plenty of sealed-up matter, is a polished wine. It ends on hazelnut and a little honey. It is compact, and its intrinsic power tips it towards food rather than aperitif. Has enough body for a light touch tomato vichyssoise served at Le Grand Pré at Roaix. As it goes, its low acidity becomes quite quickly noticeable. A stout wine that dips, then holds itself together. 14°. 2014-15 June 2010

2007

ripe traces in the yellow robe. The bouquet is broad and sunny, comes with a melted butter air that is laced with some citrus and spice notes. The palate is close-knit, the style a full one. This keeps tight all through, runs evenly, has a solid final stage, holds up. A low acidity, here and now wine suited to light foods, picnics. It is cleanly made, has nice dimension, and just a bit of late burn on the aftertaste. 14°. 2010-11 Feb 2009

2006

very ample, rounded bouquet – honey, apricot, is rich, shows banana flambé. The palate is also rich and round. It is funny that the Viognier influence, only 10% here, comes through. Fat and buttery wine that has late grip nonetheless. Good length, really fat and rich – great with food. To 2013. Nov 2007

2005 ()

round aroma of pineapple and exotic fruits. The palate fruit is suave, then it becomes punchy, full on, needs food. The fullness is accentuated over any freshness. 2008-09 Dec 2006

2004

warm, notably rounded bouquet, a hint of pear (cheeky Viognier insert??). Nice weight on palate, some cut to it. Baked green apple tart flavour. Probably a wine for food. Length sound. Some end heat. Clean wine with depth.