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The Wines

40-80% Clairette (early 1980s), 20-40% Roussanne (early 1980s), 0-20% Bourboulenc from sandy soils, (until 2008 was 30% Grenache blanc, part oak fermented), new 600-litre oak cask fermented at 17°C, raised 6 months (until early 2010s was steel vat fermented at 19°C, raised 6 months), malo blocked, organic wine, 3-15,000 b

2018 ()

(casks) rather full yellow robe; the nose is buttery, with brioche notes, white raisin, a little honey, suggests Roussanne that is very ripe. There is light toasting. The palate has a flavour of white fruits, compote in style, with solid length, a full finish. Its juice is rather thick, and it will accompany veal, pork dishes well. It has an appealing savoury nature, and some positive touches of near oxidation. It will be stimulating, varied around six years’ old. 15,000 b. 80% Clairette bl, 20% Rouss. €30. 2029-30 Oct 2019

2016

fine, firm yellow. The nose comes forward, has close-knit airs of white fruits, peach with citrus cut. It’s sturdy and prolonged. The palate is a good swirl of white fruits and nuttiness, a wholesome, sustained depth to it. This is more for la table than drinking solo, and I like its proper body and good, compressed juice. It is broad and compact, good for veal, tuna. There is nice, slight saltiness on the aftertaste. It’s a lusty, bonhomme wine. 13.5°. 2023-24 Sept 2017

2015 ()

full yellow robe. The nose is broadly spread across white fruits in a jam style, peach, butter, firm airs of honeysuckle. There are a few clips of freshness, and a light Melba toasting from the oak. The palate sets out with a round offering of ripe white plum, ripe nectarine. This turns on a fat wheel, is suited to sauced dishes, lobster, veal, has the vintage sun in its centre, goes for it now, doesn’t hold back. Hence drink it now to 2023. The finish gives dried fruits, quite grip. 13.5°. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2014

shiny yellow robe. Peach, stone fruited aroma on the nose, a kernel of roasted nuts, garrigue brush, liquid honey. The palate is tight but pretty full; this has a traditional style with some tannin and its grip on the close. It is hearty and weighted, and will do well with bouillabaisse and firm Provençal flavours such as aubergines, ratatouille. It lacks a little definition. 13.5°. 3,000 b. 75% Clair, 25% Rouss. Bottled March 2015. 2023-24  Oct 2015

2013 ()

deeper colour than many – yellow/gold. The nose is ripe but rather sullen, shows only subdued aromas. The palate is flat and phenolic, too grippy. Alcohol appears on the finish. A little clunky and heavy for my taste. 13.5°.  2020-21 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

yellow robe, rather a rich look about it. There is a sense of ripe, fat roundness on the nose, which is still restrained. Airs of nut smoke, tilleul or linden/lime line up ahead of fruit such as orange jam. Appealing gras gives this a tasty dimension – notable ginger here, with oak spice at the end. The main flavour is cooked white fruits that aren’t closely definable. It has the elegance and enough content for poultry, guinea fowl, quail and mild cheeses such as Camembert. Has a lucid, lime finale. 13.5°. 2019-20  Oct 2013

2011

mild yellow. White fruits jam aroma, some banana and ripe pear on the round bouquet – it offers no fireworks but is steady, shows hints of aniseed, garrigue outcrop. The palate has a light pear-banana flavour, a low-key gras richness. Easy going wine, with a touch of burn late on. It doesn’t light me up, but is sound enough. 40% Cl. 40% R, 20% B, 15°, bottled March 2012 this year. It will be more interesting around 2015. €18. 2019-21  Dec 2012

2010

mild yellow robe; has a soft pear aroma, offers a waft of hazelnut and very slim-cut melba toast in behind, also vanilla – the nose is subdued overall. The palate grips on the start, shows dried fruits and light spice. It continues well through the palate, ending on a fresh, firm grip. It isn`t really parading its clarity today. From mid-2012. Decant. 13.5°. €18 at the cellars. 40% Clairette, 40% Roussanne, 20% Bourboulenc this year. 2022-24 Dec 2011 Previously March 2011 ***(*) (to be bottled tomorrow) pale robe. Toasty, nutty, rather complete nose. Springy, clear start to the palate – delivers ripeness, then freshness. This has content, fills the glass. Good with grilled fish, dry goat cheese. Good. Has enough to go beyond being an aperitif wine. 2018-20 March 2011

2009

rather rich aspect, a medium yellow colour at heart. The nose is closing, so decant this. There is a drift of pineapple, with a spice-apricot second tier aroma, the nose has fresh instincts. The palate is muscular – this is a southern wine from a hot year, no doubt. There is an intrinsic, sealed depth to it. It shows a little helpful acidity late on. A wine of good body so line up well-flavoured foods, and it would take sauces in its stride. Has a meaty, full finale. 2025-26. €18 is a correct price. Dec 2011

2007 ()

yellow glints; baked fruits such as pear, ripe Bramley apples on the nose that has a nice salty outer edge. The palate runs along with a knit texture, is a wine offering southern richness, fuelled by the sun. There is a broad, and again baked fruit tart implication on the finish. Good and wholesome, low acidity, but plenty of glycerol in this, so it won't disappear early. The palate is very comfortable and appealing, great with sauced fish, cheese. 2018-19 Nov 2008

2006 ()

mid yellow colour, with bright glints. Soft, fruit tart, butterscotch aroma with a latent high tone present – there is no really pure fruit-forward aspect to it. The palate leads with dried fruits that have a floral, near violet trimming. The flavour is a mix of flan and green fruits or lime, and there is a salty tenor on the finish. A workmanlike wine, not a rocker or seducer. The finish is nutty. There is a lack of highlights, and this needs more mid-palate flesh and depth. OK, but it lacks class and structure. 13.5°. 2012-13 July 2008

2005 ()

fully toned bouquet – mixes peach, nut, honey plus some light vanilla and oak. Tight-knit palate, but holds a rich interior. Flavour of white plums, has a nutty finish. Beefy wine, needs food. 14°+. To 2011-13. Nov 2006

2004

melon, buttery nose of nice style, and a tang of lime also. Weighty, almond, buttery taste. The length is OK, and there is some minerality present. It is a bit hidden on the finish – is starting to close. From spring 2009 for more expression from it. To 2013. Dec 2006

2000 ()

fruity, rather zesty bouquet. The palate holds white fruits, a slight stewed aspect to them. Isn’t really out and about, may be in a dumb phase. Try from spring 2004. 2009-11  March 2003