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The Wines

45% Grenache (1950-1960s), 25% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan from clay-limestone, garrigue soils on slopes & terraces, hand harvested, destemmed, 3+ week vinification of each plot separately, pumping overs, cap punchings, aged 2-3-4 year 228-litre oak casks 18-21 months, unfined, filtered, a selection of the best wine chosen after malolactic fermentation, organic, biodynamic wine, “drink with sauced meats, stews”, 2,400-2,500 b

2016 ()

dark red colour; the bouquet carries garrigue, herbes de Provence airs, menthol in with its cassis, smoky fruit. It shows energy. The palate issues a firm run of black fruited content, licorice and smoky tang in the tannins. It’s not yet become a whole, is still moving into shape and cohesion. The fruit can emerge further from within its rocky tannins on the second half. There’s lots of menthol in this, which is good for its clarity and lift. It’s very expressive on the close. 14.5°. 2,400 b. 45% Gren, 25% Mourv, 20% Syr, 10% Cari. From late-2020. 2035-37 Mar 2019

2015

(casks) dark robe. There is an inky, almost brooding quality to the nose, which is deeply set with simmered black berries and a note of smokiness. The palate runs with wavy fruit that criss-crosses it freely, the flavour leading on black cherries, coulis style. The tannins are ripe and present. This is tasty! There is inner strength that will serve it well as it ages and varies away from all this lively first fruit. 14°. 2,400 b. €8. Full Cairanne cru wine, not Villages. From mid-2017. 2024-25 May 2016

2014

full robe. The nose is a grizzly bear, with a brewed dark fruit, an oiliness of ripeness and a little oak. The palate bears a minted, chocolatey flavour, with good intensity and life in its veins. A real good southern wine that doesn’t hold back. It ends with a good burst of fruit and slightly perfumed moments. Interesting and stimulating. 14°. 2,400 b. €8.00. 45% Gren, 25% Mourv, 20% Syr, 10% Cari. 2022-23  May 2016 

2012

decent red robe with the top rim a bit light. There are smoke from the oak notes above an aroma of plum fruit, and there is a roasted side as well. The palate is sealed, compact, needs air to allow more to come out and about. The fruit lies within its oak for now. There is a loss of local ID on the finish. It bears spice. It needs coaxing out – leave until mid-2016. 14°8. 2021-22 Apr 2015

2011

shiny dark plum robe. There are small notes of rose and peony on the nose, with a centre of raspberry. It is just merging on the bouquet as its oak becomes fused. The palate gives plum fruit with raisin and mocha after half way; it holds some supple gras, and ends roundly, the length decent. Decant this. It is OK, but is less good and less local than the Vieilles Vignes cuvée here. 14°. To 2020  Apr 2015

2010

nice dark red; dusty, baked bread airs lie over subdued dark fruit – suggestion of oak here; there is a ground force, also earthy notes in the nose. Oily black fruit resides on the palate; this is on the limit vis-à-vis its extraction. It ends on a butty charge of licorice, a fresh and full tannin. This is a Pocket Rocket style wine, all in a tight ball of muscle. 14°. Decant. 2018-19. €7.50 export.   June 2013

2009 ()

red robe that is toning down with age. There are meaty, reductive airs – the bouquet has a sweet centre and a mulled berry angle, notes of flowers. The palate is compact, carries juice at its heart, with an oak-tannin dup wrapped into it. The length is nice, the exit fresh. This has an ensemble, and beats the 2011 and 2012 since its oak is more integral. The finish is tasty. 14°. 2020-21  Apr 2015