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The Wines

45-50% Grenache (1950-1960s), 20-25% Mourvèdre (early 1960s), 20% Syrah (late 1980s), 10% Carignan (early 1960s) from clay terraces and clay-limestone garrigue soils on La Vitalis, hand harvested, destemmed, 3-4 week vinification of each plot separately, pumping overs, light manual cap punchings, 1-2 part vat emptying/refillings, aged 75-80% steel vat, 20-25% 1-2-3-4 year 228-litre oak casks, some 225-litre & 600-litre oak casks 14-18 months, unfined, filtered, organic, biodynamic wine, “drink with leg of lamb, duck breast, red meats, cooked vegetables”, 10-12,000 b


dark, sustained robe; the nose carries reduction, needs to breathe. There is an inner mass of blueberry coulis, blackberry fruit with a sweet tenor. The palate bears lusty content, black fruits that are generous and prolonged, have a lip smacking quality, the tannins well ripened and building on its late depth. This has drive and vigour, is a no-nonsense, vibrant Cairanne. The finish is peppery, charged, well sustained. It can develop further. 14°. 12,000 b. 50% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv, 10% Cari. From spring 2020. 2036-38 Mar 2019


(vat/casks) dark robe, purple with black tints. The bouquet is bright and ample, comes forward with a strong offer of mulberry fruit, a generous bounty for the nose.  The palate is filled with tasty, lip smacking fruit such as black cherries, has a southern depth with tidy, lightly powdered tannins to sprinkle some variety on the finish, which lingers well. This is a true Cairanne, STGT within its sunny vintage frame. The fruit is really enjoyable. 14°. 12,000 b. €5.90. 50% Gren, 20% Syr, 20% Mourv, 10% Cari. From mid-2017. 2024-25  May 2016 


dark colour; the nose hesitates to come through, carries a subdued air of cooked plums, a Grenache association, with a tinkle of raspberry. This drinks well now, with fine matter and clear tannins helping its buoyancy. Charming and well made, Cairanne en finesse. I like its accurate depiction of fruit and tannin, and it ends with commendable freshness, a note of spearmint there. 14°. 12,000 b. €5.90. 50% Gren, 20% Syr, 20% Mourv, 10% Cari. 2021-22 May 2016  Previously Apr 2015 *** (vat/casks) dark red; the bouquet isn’t clear and settled as yet – the berry fruit has a grilled surround that clouds it, comes with a note of licorice. The palate bears live, dark cherry fruit with the linear shape of the year, and isn’t far off ready. It picks up a saline note as it finishes. It drinks well potentially, with some darkness in the late flavour. 14°. From late 2015. 2019-20  April 2015

2013 ()

dark red colour; there is a meaty angle to the nose, which gives black olive, simmered black cherry fruit airs. The palate is tucked in on itself for now, with good depth of content, and still rather assertive tannins to rule the second half. It has genuine heart, and fills the glass well. The aftertaste is savoury, round, nicely full. From 2016  2022-23  April 2015 


2012 ()

red robe. The nose is attractive, gives a secure berry fruit depth, mulled raspberry, a note of licorice and just a savoury note to entice. The palate gets off to a good, springy start, has mid-palate substance. It develops gras richness as it goes, lengthense freshly. Good content, authentic local feel and expression, including herbs on the palate. This has a fresh, compact sign-off, with a linger from its red fruit gras. STGT wine, very true. “It is quite facile, fresh, elegant,” Yves Jean Houser. 14°. 2020-21  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2013 **** (vat/casks) purple tints in the dark red robe; blackberry fruit with attractive violet hints in a free, harmonious and nicely full nose; it gives an aroma of licorice, black raisin, the sense of the south as well. A good start, thus. The palate targets roundness, the sphere: it is agreeably fat, with a little dark cut to straighten and direct its late moments. This is well-modelled wine, whose early mulberry fruit is sleek. It holds good quality tannins that are really precise in their mix of support and life, have a fine grain. The balance is good, the finish long and fine. Plenty of good travel ahead. 14°. €5.10 ex cellars. 12,000 b. From 2015. 2019-20  Oct 2013


still a decent red robe. Has a charming, evolving nose that expresses prune, mulled blackberry, anote of rosemary and vanilla. This is compact, solid, fresh, has quality. It ends on fine, pre4cise droplets, detail. More a wine of its vintage than one of terroir. Plum, cocoa and mocha show in the flavour. It has a slightly toasted and grounded sign-off, notes of tar. Decant this. 14°. 2022-23  Apr 2015 Previously June 2013 NR 2 bottles tasted, neither right. Bottle 1: dark red, purple. Has a gravel-pebble air, a bit leathery. Brett on palate, which is pinched, the dark fruit subdued. Bottle 2: oily, cooked plum nose, with telltale leather. Compact, rolled together palate but acidity dominates the second half, and it ends drily. Not right. €5.05 export. June 2013


full, dark robe with a tone of some matt. There is a snap of mineral and lead pencil on the nose, along with an ash note, backed in with red berry such as mulberry or loganberry, plus well-integrated oak. The palate starts firmly, is square shaped. The fruit lies under a an oaked, compact layer, and is therefore subdued. It ends on hickory smoke, drawing in on itself as it finishes: not ready yet. It has good freshness for a 2009, and its rich plum flavour is typical of this vintage. From late 2013. 14°. 2019-21 April 2012 Previously March 2011 *** full red; reserved nose built around the Grenache = supple red fruit, quite sweet and likeable. Good thrust on the attack – the red fruit launches out with a breezy momentum before tannins and nutty elements take over. Needs to sort out the finish, from late 2012 for that. To 2018. March 2011


plum red robe. There is a little reduction in a red berry aroma, game airs. This is at a mature stage now. The palate bears red fruit with a grainy infiltration, has a robust heart, and asserts towards the finish. It has freshness and inner drive, but the finish is on the pepper and dust. Fine to drink this with game, red meat. 14°. To 2019  Apr 2015 Previously **(*) full black robe, mauve also. The nose is a wee bit strict – this may be the influence of the hermetic steel vat raising, comes with cassis fruit. The palate also shows cassis, but is also stiff, clean and pristine. It needs its tannins to relax, and become more supple. A touch taut – its fruit is clear, but arm's length, and I suspect it won't budge a lot. The Mourvèdre also stiffens the finish. 14°. To 2014. Nov 2009


full red, purple traces; juicy style aroma led by the scent of a blackberry coulis, also a little tang of leather. The palate gives supple, direct black cherry fruit, with a minor sweetness all through it. The black cherry aftertaste is consistent with its palate debut. Agreeable wine, good and steady. 14°. 2011-12 March 2009