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The Wines

20-40% Marsanne, 20-40% Roussanne (can be very ripe), 10-25% Grenache blanc, 10-40% Clairette, 0-10% Bourboulenc on clay-limestone soils (all planted east facing for freshness), Roussanne 2-5 year 600-litre oak cask fermented 4 weeks, Marsanne 12 hl large barrel fermented 4 weeks, raised 12 months, 20-60% (Grenache blanc, Clairette) concrete vat, egg-fermented 4 weeks, raised 12 months, varieties assembled after 12 months, malo half completed, filtered, organic, biodynamic wine, 7-10,000 b

2017 ()

off yellow colour; the nose is ripe, on butterscotch, slightly “high” white fruits, a hint of reduction, baked bread. The palate suggests a low acidity wine, bears a white raisin, grapey flavour, takes on a note of tannic tang towards the finish, a peach stone clench there. It’s a table wine, up for mushroom dishes, Comté cheese via its Jura-like tang. 14°. 40% Clair, 20% Mars, 20% Gren bl, 20% Rouss. €19.50. 2022-23 Mar 2019

2016 ()

yellow robe with a sheen to it. The nose is rich and rather dumb, compote of stewed banana, pear in syrup, fennel-aniseed all present. The palate gives a peach with apricot fat, the fat derived from the low yield, the content fleshy. This has very good heart and substance, is delivered without Show Biz. Good with white meats. “After six or seven years, very good with a risotto girolles wild mushrooms, or écrevisses or fresh water prawns or artichokes,” Frédéric Alary. 14°. 7,500 b. 40% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, 20% Grenache blanc. 20 hl/ha. From 2019. 2029-31 Oct 2017

2015

full yellow. Toast-brioche baked bread, apricot airs, grapey notes, petrol also. There’s richness from within on the palate, delivers grip in a compact second half, ends with a little restraint. This is solid, de la terre wine; it’s not fully out yet, with peach and a nice burst of freedom before it tones down. It’s a bit stubborn just now. There is robust gras here. Decanting advised. 14°. From late 2018 or 2019. 2027-29 Oct 2017

2014 ()

attractive yellow robe. Pear with a note of candy shows on the nose; it is lightly oaked. The palate drinks with a serene, nicely detailed style, presents white fruits that have a supple texture. They nourish the palate well. The acidity is trim. Elegant and enjoyable. 14°. 10,000 b. 40% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, 10% Grenache blanc. 2019-20 May 2016

2013 ()

yellow robe; smoky air, mild white fruit present – a bouquet of quiet style, just an engaging note of tangerine to lift it. The palate is trim and well presented: it has a white fruits flavour, some nutty seasoning, the length is pretty good. Enjoyable for hors d’oeuvres, has the grip for fine fish such as sole, as well. 14°. 2019-20  April 2015 Previously Feb 2015 *** shiny pale yellow; has a fine bouquet that combines honey and honeycomb with lime and lemon grass airs, a note of pear and nut also. The palate has a low-key sweetness, the white fruit coming with a compote style and a bright floral tone. Wine for la table – chicken, fish. It is correct, but not striking. Serve it well chilled. Only 8,000 b this year, and a blend of 40% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne and just 10% Grenache blanc. 2021-22  Feb 2015

2012 ()

bright, quite full yellow robe. The nose is attractively rounded, gives an apricot, guava jelly air with aniseed and licorice. The palate bears jolly richness, is nice and supple, and well-centred. Has a good, steady length. It grips well on the finish. It is just a bit tucked up at this stage, so decanting will help. 14°. 2019-21 Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2013 ***(*) yellow colour of some depth, is bright. Dried fruits, cooked lemon curd, nougat notes feature in the nose, a paté of quince, and apricot. The palate is grounded, full in a restrained way, a definite contender for mushroom risottos, smoked haddock kedgeree, chicken supreme etc. The flavour involves white fruits, raisins, spice. The finale is round and complete, works well, good cut from aniseed there. The gras richness carries well. 40% Clairette blanche, 30% Roussanne, 20% Grenache blanc, 20% Marsanne this year. 14°. US$28-30, J& R Selections, Troy,MI in USA. 2018-19  Oct 2013

2009 ()

fine fruit air, led by honey and apricot, peach – a nicely styled bouquet. Has a good, plump attack – off it goes. Supple and very good for the aperitif, has a late clack of freshness, a fennel seed style sign-off. Sound balance here. w.o.w., very drinkable wine. “I like to drink this as an aperitif, or at two to three years' old with gambas (grilled prawns), red mullet with tomato or fennel sauces, lobster,” Frédéric Alary. 2015-16 March 2011

2005 ()

nose reflects apricot, a little floral in its nature, starting to evolve past its first flush. Pretty, poised wine, with honey in its flavour. Good length, solid structure.. The big nature of the vintage has been handled well – to avoid excess headiness. March 2007 Previously (casks) a winner from a 70% Roussanne, 30% Grenache blanc cask that was very stylish, ***(*), Marsanne with Clairette rich and plenty of texture around **(*)

2004

scented, honey, ripe white fruits aroma. Rich palate – apricot, white plum, pineapple jam flavour with exotic notes. Orange marmalade a contender for the taste impression, this is a fat wine, with some late sucrosity. Has moments of acidity in with the marmalade, and isn`t quite together as yet. 2012-13 “We fermented a long time and allowed the malo to complete this year. That modified the balance of the wine towards a richer, more jam fruit style. Fermentations were very slow in 2004, and I find 2004 richer than 2003,” F.Alary June 2006

2003

bright yellow; salty, dried white fruits, with traces of oak (the new proportion at this date was 20%); tight knit palate, with a pineapple style flavour, a wine at a crossroads with quite a tannic structure, and the oak re-asserting at the end. Beefy wine, has a baked apple finale. Does not show its alcohol of 14.8°. Full-bodied, but not fiery. To 2010. “We chose to wait for the phenolic ripening this year, so didn`t pick the whites till 8 September. I find melon jam on the nose; this needs refined cooking with firm flavours – red mullet with tomatoes, wok cooking, caramelised guinea fowl or done in spices,” F.Alary June 2006

2000 ()

pretty yellow; complex nose, shows evolution but has a soft side with pear and spice as well, and salty, dried fruits. The palate unfurls very nicely, has a very beau, even flavour of vanilla and mint, and plenty of grip. At a very good moment now, can live on, but shows great grip and style, and indeed gains vivacity as it goes. Good character, no heaviness, quite a rich wine. 2010-12 June 2006