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The Wines

60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 18-20% Syrah (av age 70 yrs), from pudding soils up to 50 cm depth, then rock, limestone, a lot of oyster fossils, "our highest vineyard, part east, part west facing", 0-2% Viognier, destemmed, 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, pumping overs, oak racks (claies) put in on the cap to submerge it, aged large barrel 24 months (until late 2000s was 40% large barrel, mainly the Mourvèdre, 20% 550-litre casks (mainly the Syrah), 40% vat (mainly the Grenache), unfined, unfiltered, organic, biodynamic wine, 12-25,000 b

2016 ()

(34 hl barrel, bottling late 2018) black-purple colour. The bouquet is very good, has a healthy depth, with animal from the Mourvèdre, violet, crushed blackberry fruit, licorice. It’s very much the Mourvèdre in the driving seat for now. The attack is stylish, well juiced, with live but squeezy tannins; it fleshes out well, and has a fluid density of content, smoky touches. The fruit is stylish, deep, the close fresh, bearing menthol and licorice. It buttons up on the finish, intensifies, and flows less freely there. Decanting helpful. “The Mourvèdre brings freshness, the Syrah not so; the Syrah is only interesting when it’s floral,” Frédéric Alary. 60% Mourv, 20% Syr, 20% Gren. From 2021. 2034-37 Oct 2017

2015

(large barrel) full red robe. The nose gives an air of stone fruits, prune, ripe raspberry, a good mix of fruits, with the potential to vary. The palate entertains via bright black fruits with a savoury collection of tannins. There is a fresh stretch before the finish. Good elements here for a well-fused, interesting wine. 14.5°. 8,000 b. 60% Mourv, 20% Syr, 20% Gren. From late 2017. 2024-25 May 2016

2014 ()

bright dark red robe. Blackberry coulis fruit with a husky side to it on the nose, has a rather baked clamp around it. There are notes of black raisin, brandy cake. The palate gives a red blood, iron duo with a spinal nature, freshness and late herbes de Provence, spiced plums. The aftertaste is a bit dry, and the finish needs time. This will be good with beef stews, game, is a good autumn-winter wine, is de la terre. The close involves iodine, menthol. It’s a wine for the informed. Decanting required. “You can keep this – it has a lot of freshness,” Frédéric Alary. From mid-2018. Bottled 26 Dec 2016. 2026-27 Oct 2017

2013

(large barrel) shiny dark red, a promising robe. The nose has quiet style, offers red fruits, raspberry-mulberry, with a layer of mixed herbs present, genuine local appeal. The palate strides out well, bearing tasty red fruits with tannins that are well registered inside it. This is good Grenache-Syrah inspired wine, with notes of finesse that set it in the higher echelons of the vintage here. Very enjoyable. 14.5°. 2020-21  April 2015 

2012 ()

bottled one month ago: notably dark red robe. The bouquet gives airs of fragrant strawberry, has a curvy grace, is still on the fruit and not yet varied. It has potential, though. The palate bears attractive, rather extravagant fruit with a keen freshness, lots of life and lift. It ends in dainty fashion, which is a success given its undoubted degree of 15° or so, and its packed content. The aftertaste lingers well, with some quite thick gras richness. Decant this. Very good, handsome wine. From mid-2017. 14.5°. 2028-30  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2013 ***(*) (casks/vat) bright, inviting full red. Crisp, smoky top air, a running aroma of dusty garrigue and menthol, black fruit under that, quite rounded jam fruit in style – interesting variety here. The palate offers expressive, enjoyable fruit, perky tannins appearing towards the finish. A breezy, unfettered Cairanne, one that has the movement and cut of 2012. A small spot of darkness comes through, and the finish is pebbly. The fruit carries pretty well, and a joli richness prolongs well after half way. It has a certain authority. From 2015. 14.5°. 2019-20  Oct 2013

2011

dark red robe. Grilled, roasted first airs on the nose – there is a prune and blackberry aspect after them, has a drumbeat of garrigue herbs, baked plains. This is rich, prolonged wine – with freshness and decent balance. It starts on the sunny depth of the vintage. It has enjoyable depth, is a proper southern wine with enough late palate clarity to allow pleasure and the prospect of another glass. Wholesome wine that covers the ground well. The aftertaste is tarry, involving cocoa, mocha, black raisin. 14.5°. 2025-27  Apr 2015

2010

dark red. Honey, black raisin, dark aroma with notes of black olive paste or tapenade, oaking, black pepper. Smoke and pine hover, with red meat droplets. Lissom black fruit lies inside a tight oak casing and lead to a crunchy, compact, grain-oak finish. Very much in its first flush. The aftertaste carries agreeable violet moments. The tannins ease a bit on the finish. it is in on itself just now, not flaunting its gras. A slow gainer. Pretty authentic. From mid-2014. 14.5°. 2026-28. Oct 2012 

2006

full robe; pistachio, nutted aroma with a ripe, clear plum fruit interior, while a little meatiness adds weight to it. The palate holds a steady line of black fruit, with a lithe tannic presence that keeps it light on its feet. Good length, plenty of potential here. It gains weight and interest as it goes, builds up well on the finish, where it is persistent and chewy. Has a charcoal, dark chocolate aftertaste. From winter 2009. 14.5°. 2018-20 Feb 2009

2005

(oak/vat) dark, bright robe; trace of reduction on the nose, but a big underlay to it, and has a warm interior of currently dumb black fruits. The Mourvèdre has brought some reduction, which is why this wine receives young oak in large barrels. A beau thrust of fruit on the palate, and the wine gains momentum, its length is good. Solid, with black berry fruits, and quite an upright shape from its varietal blend. Needs patience if it is to sparkle more – is very tight now, a manly wine. Esp 2010 on. 2019-21 June 2006 “Because the Mourvèdre is late-ripening, it adds a freshness of its own,” F.Alary

2004 ()

quite a broad nose – spiced red fruits like plum ; palate has a floral overlay to its stone fruit, elegant length and a round aftertaste. Calm wine, not pushed in any way. Alcohol lurks a little in it, the only mild reproach. 2014-15 “The Mistral wind was so cool during harvest that we have more floral airs and elegance in the wine than normal,” François Alary. 12,000 b this year. March 2007 Previously June 2006 ***(*) (vat) quite deep colour; stylish nose, with clear raspberry fruit and some mineral, appealing clarity. Pretty fruit start, also clear and nicely supple. Gourmand wine, with fine tannins. The fruits are red, and it is very drinkable, has lots of charm in its fruit. The tannins are still evident – this can live, as well. To be bottled Sept 2006 2014-16 June 2006

2003

still dark robe; solid, wide shoulders bouquet – the black berry fruit deep inside is well-expressed and clear, and there are hints of black chocolate, the vintage speaks. Black jam, spice and prune flavours on the start – all knit together, with some dark chocolate, cocoa. Extends well, is a beau vin, with a nutted aftertaste. Good and expressive, has a live finish with good late lift. STGT wine. 14.9°. 2013-16 “The prune flavour comes from the very ripe Grenache. What saved us in 2003 was the Mourvèdre – because it is a late ripener. Those with a lot of Syrah suffered this year,” F.Alary. June 2006

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

1998

sustained colour, dark red. Has a rounded aroma, partly cooked fruit that stops short of being jam-like. It’s dark, rather sweet, quite tight, shows black olive paste as a local feature. The palate holds a dense black fruit, curranty flavour, pockets of heat. A good fruit strain runs through it; there’s lot of blackcurrant in a clean tasting wine that comes with spice, tapenade, some heat. It’s very persistent, and true to its place. 2016-19 Cendrillon Restaurant, New York Dec 2000

1996 ()

the robe shows evolution, but there is only a bit of ruby in with the red. The nose is engaging, has airs of sweet spice, rose-hip, a good plum fruit centre, some licorice. The palate has a friendly red stone fruit-spice combination, along with mocha moments. It has reached a good level of variety, both on nose and palate. The length is appealing, with neat gras and a mineral flourish on the exit. “It has nice small touches and a belle freshness; I would eat sweetbreads with it,” Frédéric Alary. 13°. 2019-20  Apr 2015