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The Wines

50% Grenache (1930s) from Les Serres Blancs (next to Ebrescade), 50% Mourvèdre (1960s), harvested after the Gigondas towards end October, Grenache destemmed, Mourvèdre whole bunch placed on top of Grenache in vat, 4+ week vinification, occasional pumping overs, a semi floating cap system, raised 80% vat, 20% new 600-litre oak casks, unfined, filtered, made in 2012, 2000, 1999, 2,800 b

2015 ()

very dark robe, more black than dark red. The nose is broad, deep, reflects the sunshine of the vintage, the fruit ripe and savoury, strong airs of prune at the helm. The palate is immediately abundant, runs hither and thither with rolling stone fruits, and produces a rabbit out of the late hat via a note of freshness, some sparky tannins that line the finish. It is very broad. A wine of plenty with an impressive level of secure content and great potential. 14.5°. 2,700 b, bottled already. €13.00 export is V. Cairanne cru, not Villages. From 2019. 2027-29  May 2016

2012

dark robe, with some mystery about it. Has a bright prune aroma, comes with a genuine, ripe depth, a note of rosemary. This is just starting its route on the palate, is marked by Mourvèdre grip and intensity. It collects a firm finish, with quite chunky tannins. There are garrigue, attractive influences in this rather stately wine. The length is sturdy. No hurry: from 2017. 14°. 2030-32 Apr 2015

1999

full, quite dark robe; earthy, Honest Citizen characteristics on the nose – it is oily, quite hot wine off the garrigue, shows some alcohol. There is immediate grip on the palate, with a rather extracted feel. It has Star Wars zap fruit, and empties a little towards the finish, where there is a 2003 style baking, a dry shape. 13.5°. I wonder about its concept – it celebrates André Brusset 1910-1999, whom I met in the early 1970s, but is the result of excited, over interventionist winemaking. 13.5°.  2012-13  Oct 2007, Copenhagen