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The Wines

50-65% Grenache (1915-18) from 2.5 hectares (bought in 1993 from a Co-operateur) on Les Chabrilles (grey clay, bit of sand, some limestone) & Les Combes de la Pauline (clay, also gravel, 17% limestone), 35-45% Syrah (mid-1960s) from Les Chabrilles, 0-5% Mourvèdre, hand harvested, destemmed, pre-fermentation crop cooling 5 days at 12°C, 21-25 day vinification at up to 31°C, wild yeasts, aired pumping overs, daily automatic cap punching, aged 60-70% concrete vat, 30-40% 2 year 600-litre oak casks 12 months, unfined, unfiltered, 10-25,000 b

2015

shiny dark robe. The nose leads on a prominent aroma of blackberry fruit, with a note of red berry, mulberry behind. It has get up and go, even with its soaked fruits ripeness. The palate has a tasty start, triggered by black cherries with a fine coolness developing after the mid-point. This is stylish and full, a genuine Cairanne close to its terroir. There is a little tarriness as it finishes. 14°. 12,000 b. €7.45. Bottled already. Cairanne cru, not Villages. From late 2018. 2027-28  May 2016

2014 ()

(vat/casks) nicely full dark red; the nose expresses soaked black cherries with an agreeable breeze of freshness inside it, the fruit pure. The palate is tasty, right away: the fruit flows well, and it takes in sleek tannin as it ends. This is very neat Cairanne, a polished wine of fine detail. It has a salted, dainty grain finish. Beau, subtle wine. 14°. From 2016. 2020-21  April 2015

2013 ()

full red robe; there are good, local attributes on the nose – an open display of herbes deProvence, with a savoury black fruit, hint of menthol, backdrop. It is well varied, gives a stimulus to the wine. The palate holds agreeable black fruit with a constant connection to some chalky tannins, which prevail on the close. It runs with freedom along the palate, and will go well with pheasant, birds. 14°. 65% Gren, 35% Syr. 2020-21  April 2015 

2012

solid red robe. Has an engaging blackberry aroma that creeps along well, isn’t flashy, will vary well, while notes of garrigue lurk at present. The palate offers suave, well sustained black fruit with a comfortable, quite firm couch of tannin to support it late on. It is still young, a bit square in shape. Take your time with this. It bleeds the blood of its place well and has gained depth since last tasted, a good sign. The tannins have a little crunchy aspect. Decant this. “It has enormous potential,” Laurent Brusset. From mid-2016, for instance. 14°. Very fair VALUE at €13 for such a good wine. 2026-28  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2013 **** dark red, some black tints. There is latent muscle in the bouquet – it has a darkly fruited, charry style, good qualities of clear, nicely deep fruit and some inflexion of its place – herbs, flint, dust. This is a classy nose – bang. The palate fruit is enjoyable, its matter continues in step and ends roundly and smokily, with small black berries there. STGT Cairanne, the fruit interesting, and its weight and definition all in order for its balance. The balance allows it to be drunk now, early. Has great shape. From mid-2014 really. 14°. 2019-20  Oct 2013

2010 ()

dark robe. There is a good, savoury intensity in the nose, is well-layered, with latent garrigue notes, and the potential to vary and become interesting. This is nicely deep Cairanne; its central fruit is black, fluid, tasty, and leads the way with faithful, well-woven tannins – this is Don Quixote and Sancho Panza time. STGT, very good. It has broad fruit, lots to enjoy, has no heat. 14.5°. Good VALUE at €7.30 export, 10,000 b this year. 2021-22 June 2013  Previously April 2012 ***(*) dark red. Has a plump, fat air of sweetly cropped fruit, such as mulberry, the nose reflects fruit in a jam, but is fresh as well. The palate gives grainy, black fruit, prune: this is a sound middle of the road Cairanne, as if alluvial influences have provided moderated flesh and squeezy gras richness. Sympa wine, good bistrot drinking, with pretty good length. Powerful but pretty wine that drinks well now. 2018. 52% Gren, 45% Syr, 3% Mourv this year. 14°. April 2012

2009 ()

dark robe; soaked airs, but not a very definable nose; has a ripe, meat gravy air, Port-like, black raisin, blackberry jam – definite sunbeat on the nose. Broad, rather imposing palate, with nutty, oak notes late on. It could be more truly local, works on its power, but has drive and depth. The finish is fresh, spiced, and its alcohol is mostlt integrated. Sipping wine. 14°. To 2017. April 2011

2007

very full robe; tight as a drum bouquet – good depth inside; it is tarry, shows rounded blackberry fruit, and also has a grounded, damp black soil, earthy air. The palate is full, broad, bears persistent black fruit, indeed it is very persistent. Ticking over, smooth tannins – this extends well. “It has always been open,” Laurent Brusset. 2019-20 Nov 2009 Previously Feb 2009 ** dark robe; very ample bouquet – outward aroma, comes with lashings of black jam, also raisin, comes from the plush school of winemaking, isn`t that far from the VDN (Vin Doux Naturel) style. The palate is also plush, is “sweet and tasty” by design – gives ripe, fat black jam fruit flavours, with violets also. There is a murmur of power in it. Is a sipping, not drinking, wine that doesn`t flow freely in this make-up. 14°. To 2012. Feb 2009

2004 ()

dark red, black tones. Nutty, raisin, biscuity nose – it is grilled and a bit restricted today – will be more open from mid-2008. The palate leads with early richness, has an oily texture. Late touch of prune, pepper and oak apparent. It drinks OK now, as it nears the end of its first stage of life. A solid style of wine. 14°. To 2013. Nov 2007