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The Wines

89% Syrah (av age 65 years), 11% Viognier, co-fermented “so as a result, when the Syrah is ready, the Viognier is over-ripe” MG, vinification includes pumping overs, aged 228-litre new oak casks 42 months, 5-6,000 b, first wine 1966

2014

(cask, recently racked) dark red colour. This has a skip along bouquet led by red cherries, along with toffee and caramel from oak, low-key sweetness present. The palate goes directly, is airborne and tender, is pretty consistent in a medium weight register. It will definitely benefit and gain foundation from further raising. It ends freshly. This has hardly got going yet; it is all together, just not very deep. From 2020. 2034-37  Dec 2015

2013 ()

quite a full red; the nose has a lifted air of raspberry, plum, with smoke-oak-tar notes, liqueur fruit intensity, smoke and woods’ airs, not sun and its rays, the fruit cool. It has the potential to fuse. The palate hustles along, is very young, has a grainy texture, is still unformed. It’s in an awkward moment now, is formed of different streams of composition, plum fruit, fresh threads, grainy tannins. There’s iron in the texture, and a crisp aftertaste. There are only a few hints of florality on the second half, less than usual. It has a very vintage style. 13.5°. From 2022. 2046-48 March 2019 Previously June 2017 ***** dark red colour. The nose has a floating grace, airs of black berry, loganberry, with tar-oak hovering, licorice, a hint of herbes de Provence. The palate bears tasty, luxurious red fruit content, plums with spicing, followed by its oak curve on the finish. The content glides well, and the close builds correctly. It’s low-key today, a summer day and six months after bottling. It shows the concentration of 2013 on the close. Its liberal juice, gourmand style will appeal, and that fruit bounds around the aftertaste. Decanting advised. 13.5°. 89% Syr, 11% Vio. From 2022. 2044-46 June 2017 Previously Dec 2015 ***** (cask, last racked three months ago) full red, a dark robe. Has a mulberry, blackberry aroma, a note of prune ripeness, a full-on Mouline this year, hints of violet, damp leaves: it retains a Mouline freedom, and its habitual quiet perfume. This clusters together closely, holds sparky dark berry fruit, live oak and tannin present. It is broad and sustained. This goes long through strength more than finesse. There is plentiful gras here, and it gives the suggestion of small grapes and concentrated juice, thick skins – it has that typical vintage 2013 density. From 2020. 2042-45  Dec 2015

2012 ()

(cask, last racked eight months ago) dark red robe. The nose has a smoky potential, and is well filled with red fruits, typical in style for La Mouline, the oak bringing toast and deftly done. The bouquet holds up well, gives hints of flowers and is a stylish start. This is gourmand, supple; tasty gras richness lies at its heart, and it has a latent rose hip and floral presence. It runs safely to the finish – it isn’t a big year, but it is an elegant one, more northern than southern in influence. The length is good, the finish precise. From 2019. 2035-38  Dec 2015

2011 ()

dark red robe. There is a toasted top layer to the nose, an air of subtle red fruit below, cool strawberry and a little note of dried herbs. This is a careful bouquet. This really develops a super tasty run of red berry fruit, comes with élan, reaches a crescendo from a piano opening – bang, where did that come from? It is finely fruited, and fine all round, has notably clear instincts. It can gradually expand. There are shades of Pinot Noir here: it is very bonny. From 2020. 2036-39  Dec 2015 Previously May 2013 ***** (cask, racked 19 March 2013, five days ago) mostly dark red. The bouquet has airs of smoke and pistachio shell, deep red berry fruit, has a floating appeal. The palate holds a gentle, savoury red fruit at its heart, really tasty raspberry. The oak is still evident on its sides. Graceful wine with fine tannins that are airborne in style and are in tune with its fruit. Feathery touch, attractive. From 2017. “It is very Mouline, feminine, expansive and expressive,” Philippe Guigal. 2034-36  May 2013

2010

Alas, a much corked bottle London Nov 2015 Previously Dec 2011 ****** (cask, last racked 9 Dec 2010, 370 days ago) very dark; lovely, firmly scented nose that offers a greatly refined black cherry air. It has fine oak and shows some licorice. There are waves of fine black cherry along the palate; this is a wine of serious heart, and as it goes it takes on a firm side. The tannins are extremely fine, with small grains all locked together. Stylish, well balanced wine. “It is a serious year, with a lot of droiteur – straight, direct features – and is reserved. I am happy my twin sons were born in 2010, since the wines will live well for them. This could be racked – it will be helped by oxygen to get the seductive side of La Mouline,” Philippe Guigal. 2036-39 Dec 2011

2009

(cask) dark robe; intense, very deep, smoky raspberry air – the bouquet bears ripe fruit, prune and mulberry in it, and a markedly greater ripeness and fat already than the 2010 – it is not quite in a liqueur state, and reminds me of the young 1969. The palate carries a rather weighty fat, a mulled fruits layering. It extends richly though the palate – this is Mouline in abundance. Has a belle, wide and sustained finale, with vanilla in the flavour. Soaked and bountiful in style – the 2010, which I slightly prefer, is more crystalline. 2038-41 Dec 2011

2008 ()

plum red colour. The nose is musky, assembles incense, boudoir, violets airs, concentrated red fruits, cloves with a smoky sweetness. The palate holds charming, nicely thick juice with drive late on, has a smoky, red cherry finale. There is much spicing along it; it has the tang of a cool vintage in the red fruit on both nose and palate. This is crisply-fruited Côte-Rôtie, with a gentle, aromatic strawberry-fruited aftertaste.”It’s a fine, tender year,” Marcel Guigal. “I prefer 2008 to 2002,” Philippe Guigal. 2027-29 Nov 2017

2007 ()

pretty red, with a little top rim of lightness. The bouquet has a smoky, pebbly air, a snap of licorice, is sealed up, and not yet into a smooth red fruit display. The palate has a smoky, oaked debut with a fine red fruit gras lying rather buried within. Has an easy length, and proceeds well before tightening on the finish. The fruit resembles redcurrants, is very precise and fine. I find the oak shows more than in some years. A live wine this year, less of a full-blown sun wine than, say 2009. 13°. 2029-32 May 2011 Previously Dec 2008 ****(*) (cask) sound, quite deep red; has an open, red jam aroma – strawberry the biggest impression – and is broad, comes with shoulders. The palate has a close packing of sweet red fruit with a grain of tannin evident late on that runs through it. Has a nutty finale. An air-filled wine that will sing a pretty tune, though its fruit is gummy for now. Also tasted on a day of pouring rain. “You can sense the maturity in this,” P.Guigal. 2031-33 Dec 2008

2006

fine red colour, attractive. The nose is comfortable, has slight “high” airs that carry oak, earthiness, smoke, supple red fruits. The palate stands at a half way house moment – it combines the supple features of a little ageing with the stiffness of oak and youth. There is live acidity in it, a fresh wine with an elegant depth, evident pedigree, fine length. The redcurrant fruit is restrained. It ends on gummy features that I associate with oak raising. From 2014, needs to traverse this stage and come together more. Will improve. 2032-34 May 2011 Previously July 2010 ****(*) bright, full red; careful bouquet, not really out, reflects oak and tight red, fresh fruits and also shows a grounded, earthy air. Vanilla flavour, a woven wine with oak prominent – this is more strict than many Moulines. The fruit is typically red, the palate upright and tight. Ends on oak. Bottled end Jan 2010. From 2013-14. “It has a nervous side, and is not an easy drinking Mouline – it`s one of character,” Philippe Guigal. 2031-33 July 2010 Previously Dec 2008 ***** (cask) full, copious red. Red fruit such as raspberry that is rich and sweet comes through on the bouquet – these nicely oily and ripe, sweet airs are deep and stylish, with a good plum intensity. The palate holds red fruits with some clear, fresh tones; it runs on to a clear, airy end with oak there. Has more liberty than many recent vintages – this clarity is striking. There is more today on the nose than on the palate, its mineral snap is interesting, and tannins and oak mingle well on the finish. From 2013. 2029-33 Dec 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ****** (cask) quite dark, bright robe – darker than the 2004, shows a pretty, dark red and purple. There is a sweet note to the nose, which a fleshy blackberry aroma, and marked violet; comes in a bountiful setting, with a little licorice on top. The palate fruit has some dance and persistence. The length is good: this has verve and good, open fruit, plus juice and richness. Good width, a beau vin. This will please drinkers, there is a real fruit expression here. The number 2 of the Big Three for me this year. To 2031-34 “It has always been open like this; it is very floral,” P.Guigal Jan 2008

2005

thorough, shiny and attractive red robe. Reserved, but highly promising bouquet – mystery, the magic word, here, along with its compact red fruit aroma. The oak is absorbing well, and there are licorice wafts as well. There is a good charge of red fruit on the attack – this is nicely robust for a Mouline, with its fruit zig-zagging and finding every corner of the palate. There is a fresh tang, redcurrant fruit finale. The fruit I find to be beguiling, the texture is silky, but there is lots of depth to this beauty. Balance, naturally, is good. “Violet, prune aromas,” Marcel Guigal. From 2014, for instance. 2038-41 - I can see this ticking on. May 2011 Previously March 2009 ***** bright purple, red robe; The nose is interesting – the base is more reserved than usual, but there a few sparks of cherry fruit. This has a grounded, grilled side to it – doesn`t show the floating grace that is often here. The palate is a tight affair – it has clean lines, with a good, handsome persistence and quite a live tannin contribution. It is still very enclosed, and the oak surges on the finish. A Puritan Mouline. There is a peek of potentially pretty fruit now. The length is good. From 2013. 2032-35 Bottled end January 2009. March 2009 Previously Dec 2008 ***** (cask, last racked Feb 2008, due for bottling Feb 2009) full red with a touch of black in the robe; the bouquet comes out oaked, with the fruit hidden, unusually so. It has a lateral ripple of intrinsic strength – blackberry with a gentle curve of ripeness. The palate is similar – a cautious level of black fruit lies within, and this Mouline does not come at all with its usual profile, and it is also at a reduced stage now, 10 months after its last racking. Has a mineral, live ending, and the fruit finally emerges to wave a quiet flag there. I find this a wee bit tough now, and lacking in the openness of a Mouline d`habitude. “Once it is bottled, it will be a lot looser and fine; as a Côte Blonde wine, the Mouline can take oxygen less than say La Turque, and it is now blocked. This is similar to what happened in 1999 and 1995,” P.Guigal. From 2013-14. 2030-35 Previously April 2006 (cask) ****** very solid, tightly bound bouquet, this is chunky! Toffee here, too, nose is very ample, dense and imposing. Toast from the oak is first impression, beyond it lies true richness, genuine width and gras - is very prolonged. Tannins are silken and rich, even in this powerful context. Plum, black berry flavour. From 2013-14? 2032-2038 My favourite of the Big Three this year at this very early stage. April 2006

2004 ()

there is the start of ruby at the top of its plum red robe. This has a rather attractive baked first air, a subtle underlay of red berry fruit and quiet tobacco notes. Its centres on liqueur red berry fruit, with oaking still showing a little. The bouquet hints at the usual Mouline florality. This isn’t at its best today, is at a crossroads. The fruit on the palate is subdued, the oaking-smoke and tar right close to it. There are scented moments as one might hope for, but the palate is on the stretch, and the finish is more expressing cask raising and oak than vineyard and grape. The aftertaste is delicate. 13°. From 2017 now: wait. 2026-28  Nov 2013  Previously May 2011 **** gently evolving red robe; the bouquet has a smoky first air, but is very pretty and bears very typical Mouline strawberry fruit, a note of red jam under that. There are light toffee airs derived from its oak raising, which has been rather forceful – there is still smoky oak here, and the vintage was not full of big matter. The palate is moving to a savoury stage, its texture pliant. In its fine grain are mineral touches. This is good enough and fine to drink solo, without food, which is a compliment to its enjoyability. The length is correct. OK to drink now. Has understated qualities, but is not quite fully together. On previous evidence this is not an especially robust vintage of La Mouline. 2028-30 May 2011 Previously Dec 2008 *** largely red robe with some advance; the 1st bottle is rather dusty. Bottle 2: blackberry, scented airs with a genuine, slight damp leaf depth – soaked black cherries and violet run across it. The palate`s dark flavours are still reserved – no surprise. It shows chocolate, and late raisin. There is a slight late roundness, but it is not long nor expressive today under the heavy rain and snow flecks. It needs leaving until 2012 to settle and regain its roundness, although it has been fairly lithe from the start. 2027-29 Dec 2008. Previously Jan 2008 ****(*) (cask, 7 days before bottling) pretty, bright, quite dark red. The nose is still on its oak, but within there is very even red jam and red cherry that is nice and silken. The oak toasts the wine, not more than that. The palate, like the nose, is en finesse; is not a big vintage, and has a touch more cut and mineral than usual. A wine of elegant flow; is a bit reduced – “as we like it with bottling happening in 7 days,” P.G. The content is discreet, more than it seems as it resides in the glass. I like its quite agile fruit; the tannins bustle in at the end, and have life in them. Patience is best for integration, this is a slow developer. From 2011. 2027-30 Jan 2008 “Mouline 2004 was very supple at the start, almost too much so, but it has gained density with time and its tannins have become a bit more tight. We were excessively vigilant on quantity in 2004 – you had to be. This is my father`s preferred wine of the Big 3, ” P.Guigal. Previously April 2006 ****(*) (cask) bouquet is at a nutty, sleek red fruit stage, fresh tone. Well-cut red fruits on palate, lengthens well. Less exuberant than the hot vintages, less obviously rich. Good, clean direction, black fruits on a clean finish. From 2009. 2025-29 "It does not show the usual opulence, and is becoming spicier as it ages." P.G. April 2006

2003

the robe is still dark; sunny bouquet whose red fruit lies quietly, is latent more than obvious. There is a smoky top air, but the undertone is persistent. There are good waves of fruit and more arresting details such as airs of juniper and coffee. The palate is unusually big and savoury for Mouline, holds abundant gras richness, is sweet and fat throughout. The black fruit is smoky, peppery, very dense and continuous. A good and filled-up wine, and while it is dense, there is a a sweet depth and a succulent, coated finale that is not static. 2030-33 May 2011 Previously Dec 2006 ****** (cask) aromatic, profound nose led by red fruits, plum in the aroma. The palate carries sustained, big and bold fruit, has lots of content and is really dense. There is plenty here. This is not a typical Mouline – it is more dense and black-fruited than usual. There is chocolate – what, chocolate? Yes, chocolate – on the aftertaste. A mighty wine, with great content, but also a running flow – it is even and never suggests jam. There are also red fruits in evidence on the palate, more what I expect. Due for bottling next month. 2034-38. “The 1983 was more concentrated than this. The tannins in this 2003 are very rounded but there is a lot of matter; the 1978 tannins were more square,” Marcel Guigal. Dec 2006 Previously Dec 2004 (cask) ***** very sustained robe. Compact, smoky black fruit/olives bouquet. Dense, homogeneous wine: black fruit/chocolate, length good. Very rich at its heart. Raspberry aftertaste. Adequate tannins, has structure. Was softer, more red fruited. 2010 on. 2026-28 Dec 2004

2002

the red robe is evolving. This has funky, fungal airs – rugby scrum time here. There is “high” plum fruit, tobacco and cigar also in the mix. The attack is dark, with floral seasoning to counterpoint that – it runs well, keeps going, and finishes on an orderly pepper-grain combination. The fruit is darker than is usual for La Mouline, and does not carry a long way, ending a shade early. In the general pack this year, another runner rather than a distinguished being. 2024-26 May 2011 Previously Jan 2007 *** soft, mid-weight red colour. Smoked, oaky red berry fruits on nose, are straighter and leaner than usual, an unexpected pepperiness and some hint of violet also. Fruit isn`t yet settled in - presents a fleeting face, then empties. Elegant shape with good juice at its core, so back it to be more assembled by around 2009 onwards. Low-key vintage. 2021-23 January 2007 Previously April 2006 ***(*) guarded bouquet - licorice, and fruits a mix of raspberry and black berries, a white truffle underlay, is three-quarter weight. Elegant, very fine black fruit, a smoky element, then likeable redcurrant. Is clearly-cut, a cooler climate style. Peppery finish conforms to the vintage shape. At a very primary stage. From 2009. 2021-24 April 2006 Previously Dec 2004 (cask) **** clear fruit, touch floral bouquet, elegant, some earthiness. Likeable black fruit on palate, wends its way, is clear-cut, with some stuffing. Restrained, esp drink from 2008. 2019-23 Dec 2004

2001

medium depth red robe, touch of advance. The nose has an air of toffee, its raising still foremost, lacks precision. It is tarry, full, but the fruit isn`t crisp or obvious. There are hovering floral airs. The palate also starts on a tar note, has layers of dark fruit, the freshness of 2001 inserted between the layers. An unfinished article – drink from 2013. Not really declaring as it could. 2025-28 May 2011 Previously (cask) **** broad, generous, striking ripe red fruit bouquet; tasty attack, stewed plum, fresh with the weight. Nice clean end, fine tannins. Great promise, will blossom. Esp from 2009-10. 2023-27

2000

evolving, quite dark red; reduction floats in the air above the bouquet, which gives “high” red fruit with the drift of flowers such as lily. There are notes of tar, lavender, coffee beans – a good variety and mix, even some beef stock. The palate is at a Sweet Spot moment, is in a juicy, savoury state now. It gives the roundness of 2000, is all spherical and tasty, its sides offering suave appeal. A lovely wine on an even keel. Very easy to like this, the sort of wine that non-enthusiasts notice, even when in full conversation. 2028-29 May 2011 Previously (cask) **** gentle floral aroma, discreet oak; quite weighted, some cooked black fruit, not esp intense. Cool texture on fruit, oak tightens it at end, fair length. Charming, without grandeur. 2016-19

1999

deep robe; big, abundant aroma that is smoky, very full, has a light sprinkle of tannin. Boudoir perfume hovers over it. The palate is tight, its black fruit all muscled up. This is an evidently copious wine, that I find a bit steroid, almost too much. It does ease on that front after half way, gets outs in the clear and finds a little mineral stretch. Vert stable, unchanging wine since its youth. Caramel is in the flavour, which I do not associate, or seek, in Mouline. 2032-34 May 2011 Previously (cask) ***** oily black fruit, bosky/pepper tones, much promise; start of sleek fruit, then gets full and prolonged. Still on the tar, bouncy black juice, more tannin than usual. Texture is a delight, a toe caresser. Great length. From 2009. 2028-2034

1998

the robe has a centre of plum red, is still largely complete. A bacon smoke air accompanies those of the outdoors, such as briar, flowers and herbs. The bouquet is interesting in its different speeds and nuances of delivery and furnishes some crunchy fruit as well. The palate is fine, scented, precise, has the exquisite essence of essential oils in its make-up. This has fabulous length and a great collection of tannin at the end. Its lightly tarry aftertaste points to its youth. Lovely, Beau Vin indeed. 2027-29 May 2011 Previously ****** lovely scented nose, classic Mouline - strawberry, flowers, jam with some edge. Cool fruit, delicious, bit more robust than usual. Lovely extract. Wow! Beau Vin. 2019-2024

1997

reserved, harmonious smoked black fruit nose; red fruits attack, quite dense, streamlined oak at end, restrains the flesh. Bit hidden, nice oily, plump gras at end. 2014-2018

1996

red fruits nose, quite live; very persistent fruit on palate, good sinew. Has life, character. 2014-18

1995

spiced black, tapenade, berried nose; very discreet power, good frame, the usual juiciness restrained for once. Good structure, plenty to come. From 2006. 2018-21

1994

pretty, floral/violet nose; very nicely rounded palate, soft, deft touches. Dries a bit at the end, can run quietly on towards 2009. "A small year", Marcel Guigal.

1993

oak, then gentle strawberry fruit, decent width on nose; beguiling attack. Red fruit, spice extras, soft. Lesser scale than most Moulines, but is pretty, succulent and easy. 2007-08

1992

ripe nose, some heat, dry tones; dark flavours, bit austere, not well-knit. Bit short. Can come round, from 2002. 2008-10.

1991

big bouquet, cooked red fruits, more fire, less floral than usual. Lovely texture, lots of warmly wrapped fruit. Great depth, persistence. Some tannic restraint, very long. 2012-15

1990

restrained, gentle aroma, drier fruits than usual; quite firm, good extract, plenty of final chew. More upright than many Moulines. Oak-marked at present. Balance OK. 2011-14

1989

profound, dark fruit, cherry nose, elegant; extreme harmony, very fine, has a delicious fruit. Broad, good length, blackberries. Very complete, tang of final heat. 2012-14

1988

lovely nose, very elegant; delightful richness, fine balance, oak present. Needs time to meld. From 1998-2000. To 2011-13

1978 ()

bouquet is in the full, southern style - scented tea with soft black fruits, sweet-toned, and if tasted blind, I would have thought was 8-12 years younger. Nose shows some of the required volatility of these noble old wines. Rounded and gracious on palate, the house way of a coated wine with a tendency towards heaviness comes through. Texture is silken, the wine is full, with black fruits predominating now. I expected more flair, the wine is not precise now, so is a wine for the sweet n'easy drinkers. It softens and lengthens with air, tightens, shows some fresh tobacco notes, and gains some more character on the finish. Decant this, on tonight's showing. 2015-18. Shrewsbury, England, June 2006

1969

this was the most marvellous wine in its pomp, superbly rich, with a peacock tail of late expression, the star of a memorable vintage. Last tasting: bouquet rather precarious - ripe fruits, though dusty, dry top notes - it is dense, a little volatile. Warmth and roundess on palate, chocolate-style flavours. Dense wine, but is a little edgy now. Rather forced black cherries on finish. Soft sweetness throughout. Nov 1997, London

1968

has a strong red, sound red-black colour, though better eyes than mine say it is in fact showing some brown leanings. The nose is big and dark, a marked and deep Syrah presence. It is very softened out on the palate, with a fairly good finish, that at first is perhaps a little short. This is altogether really soft, big and beautiful. Bouquet, palate and finish are all wonderfully rounded. After 20 minutes, it started to truly show its paces, and was quite superb: it is complete and very classy, with super finesse on the palate. Quartier Patheron, Aix-en-Provence, 4 Dec 1974