Login | Subscribe
twitter

The Wines

from mainly northern sector sites near Ampuis, 5-40% destemmed according to vintage quality, 18-21 day vinification, pumping overs on whole bunch crop, cap punching on destemmed grapes, aged 20% new, 80% 2-10 year 550 and 228-litre oak casks 22 months, unfined, unfiltered, 30,000 b

2017

1) (Fongeant, Côte Baudin, Leyat, Chavaroche, steel vat, sugars, malo done) ****(*) dark red with black tints. There’s beefy depth, concerted black fruits on the nose, which has bulk – it sustains its black fruit fully. The attack is good and fresh, holds stylish fruit with gras that is silky. This is sexy wine, with very assured length. It’s very well balanced, gives the Fongeant perfume. 26-28 years 2) (Landonne, Moutonnes, Côte Blonde, a bit of Côte Rozier, steel vat, sugars, malo done) ***** notably dark robe. The nose is bold, gives blackberry, meatiness, is well charged, profound, a proper bucket full of deep fruit. It has all the depth, and liberty with it. The palate is closely packed, has good heart, with sustained, layered content. This is munchy, knife and fork wine and has the tannins to match that. The length is good, with a touch of whole bunch on the finish. These are 13.5° to 13.7°, a bit more than usual, but that is not at all noticeable. Has a solid, wide finale. The balance is good. 28 years. This is obviously a top notch vintage. 2042-45 Nov 2017

2016 ()

1) (Les Lésardes, 2010 Syrah, 60% destemmed, used 228-litre cask, four casks of it) ***(*) shiny red. Blackberry, elder airs show in a bright nose, has a coulis nature. The palate holds soaked red fruits, a tang of mineral through them, ends with verve. There’s a good splash of fruit, lively fruit, just what one wants. “it’s fresh, fine, fruited,” J-P Jamet. 16-18 years. 2) (Gerine, 2001 Syrah, a terroir of elegance over density, 500-litre cask, whole bunch this year) **** quite full red. Liqueur red fruit, a forward raspberry display on the nose. The palate holds crystalline red fruit with a salted stretch, ends well up, full of beans, a bit of crunch. “It’s fresh, elegant,” J-P Jamet. 21 years. 3) (90% Fongeant, 1991 Syrah, 10% Chavaroche, 1980 Syrah, used 228-litre cask) ****(*) dark red. There’s a good strike of blackberry fruit on the nose, and a mulberry sideline. The palate has the outer floral and velvet and inner iron of Fongeant, is very true to its place, ends on mineral, is STGT wine. Red fruits, raspberry feature, a touch of Indian ink. It’s very stylish. 24 years. “All three so far are very precise on their terroir, which is the signature of a good vintage,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 4) (Tartaras, some clay, virile wine, Fongeant, a bit, Bonnivière, clay-limestone, virile wine, Leyat, harvested 18 October, the last days, used 228-litre cask) ****(*) shiny, full red. There’s a touch of vegetal from stem inclusion on the nose, with pumice stone, graphite, blueberry fruit. The palate is on strength, has tight wrapping, black berry fruits, cassis, plenty of iron punch, blood. Good, provocative wine, is real good iron fist Côte-Rôtie, has a proper grounding. 26 years. “Because of their clay, Tartaras and Bonnivière don’t fear drought, and their virile wines therefore complement the more charming style of Leyat and Fongeant, which are more ventilated spots,” J-P Jamet 5) (Le Plomb in three parts, 1995, 2000, 2006 Syrah, used 228-litre cask) **** dark red. Has a rounded aroma, raspberry on the outer, a touch of cassis, steady inner depth of black fruits, iron, a hint of violets. There’s a mineral, vegetal theme through the palate, black berry fruit. It garners tar on the end, goes on well. Its very tight, crunched tannins remain mostly inside, a good sign. 27 years. “This has phenomenal length, enormous persistence. I like Le Plomb a lot, but only in the blend. Very often it’s too virile, lacks balance on its own. It’s a wine on structure, and not so much on pleasure. Les Grandes Places is similar – it’s on force. 2016 is an ideal year for Le Plomb, as it’s a more airborne year,” J-P Jamet. 6) (La Landonne, 1986, 1990 Syrah from both the original and recent part of Landonne, 0.26 ha, the first time it has been vinified solo rather than with other plots, 5 year 228-litre cask) ****(*) dark red. There’s an engaging, immediate burst of aroma, entrails, soaked red fruits, raspberry – the nose has depth. It leans towards reduction, which is typical of Landonne. Air brings floral notes, more elegance. The palate is above all founded on stylish gras, and well melded tannins, a swirl of cooked raspberry and joli content. This is aromatic, fleshy, Burgundian in style. The finish is lip smacking, silk and gras together, the aftertaste floral. This is very good, stands apart from all the preceding 2016s tasted. 25 years. 7) (66% Côte Baudin, 1998 Syrah, 34% Moutonnes, 1999 Syrah, 4 year 228-litre cask) **** dark red. Brambly hedgerow fruit, meaty, reductive nose, Indian ink, blueberry. This has a punchy interior, confirmed richness at its heart. The tannins move forward with some fresh assertion, the close firm. This has an iron thread. The tannins are a bit out on their own vis-à-vis the other elements of the final wine. 23 years. “There are possible oak tannins here,” J-P Jamet. 8) (40% Moutonnes, 30% Côte Blonde, 15% Côte Rozier, 15% Les Rochains, used 228-litre cask) ***** dark robe. There’s a smoky top to the nose, also inner intensity of black berry fruits; there’s sizzle, bacon fat also. The palate gives vibrant fruit, violets hovering, good iron and stylish gras, a real intricate offer. It ends on red fruits with detail, freshness; there’s a really beau aromatic-iron link. Greatly interesting, structured, balanced, elegant: massively good blending here. 27 years. “It’s complex and profound – the Côte Blonde brings charm,” J-P Jamet. OVERALL good portents, and absolute terroir interest this year. It’s likely to be an absorbing, rather cerebral wine, full of intricate contributors, and will take time to fuse together. The blend will indeed be greater than the sum of the parts. High quality, STGT Rôtie which will sing a tremendously pure song is lined up. 2040-44 Nov 2017

2015

bottled ten days ago: full, dark red. The nose is packed with fruits, blackberry fruits gleam with a real assurance, have a sweet but stylish depth, no gaps in it. There is similar close packing on the palate, its content rich and really dense, with tannins full of munch and generosity, have a spur of length, a touch of late coolness that is very helpful from them. There are nudges of terroir within. This has piled high matter, is a very slow burn wine. The empty glass after tasting is full of mineral, a good sign. Decanting advised. From 2025 if you want the start of terroir merging. 2044-48 Nov 2017 Previously Apr 2016 ***** 1) (Les Lésardes, 2010 Syrah, destemmed, 228-litre cask) **** dark red. Sun-filled, ripe black berry fruit aroma with a coulis style about it. The fruit is lively, has a proper fullness on the palate. Very full for young vines. 20 years or so 2) (Gerine, 228-litre cask, whole bunch this year, unlike 2014) **** brooding, dark nose. The palate gives good tannic stamp, smokiness. There is fineness in its fruit, and it goes long. This is engine room wine for the centre of the belnd. 23 years. 3) (Moutonnes, Leyat, Chavaroche, Côte Baudin, 228-litre cask) ****(*) dark robe. Menthol, oiliness on the nose. This floats effortlessly along the palate, is a bundle of variety, has floral prompts and good clarity of tannin. Very long, also complex. “These four are together this year since they ripened at the same time – they were assembled in the vineyard, then fermented together,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 24-26 years 4) (50% Le Plomb, 50% Fongeant, 228-litre cask) ***** very dark. The nose gives varied shade and light airs, thyme, dried herbs, bacon with dark fruit. The palate issues fruit with splendid drive, real thrust, length. This is a 180° wine, fulfilling, serious, very deep. 27 years 5) La Landonne, Côte Blonde, Côte Rozier, 228-litre cask) ****** notably dark robe. Smoky, swirling airs, inner fat,  a lot of depth on the nose. The palate is complex, intricate, comes with floral seasoning, red fruits, an attractive line of tannin. Top grade wine, a Beauty. 31 years OVERALL ***** lots of depth, different prompts, sturdiness with flair. Much to look forward to, patience required. From 2023. 2045-48  Apr 2016

2014

OVERALL **** the calling card will be elegance, a wine for a large glass, and a close link with Burgundy. It will have quiet flair, too. “Sensuous” is a word also on the agenda. 2034-36 Different components tasted 1) (Gerine, 228-litre cask, the only site destemmed) *** fair, clear red robe. The nose is clear-cut, has pepper and clove airs, smoky raspberry. This is neatly fruited, tender, a touch tame. The finale is round. The palate is more subdued than the nose. It is perfumed, has decent length. The first vineyard harvested. 10-11 years 2) (7-8 sites inc Leyat, Chacaroche, Tartaras, Bonnivière, 228-litre cask) ***(*) darkish red colour. Has a sleek, black cherry aroma, with a good, herbal crunch in it, smoked bacon. This skips along brightly, holds joli fruit, stylish juice, lithe tannin, is good and clear-cut, promising. “Freshness from the vegetal side of the stems is entering it well. It has matter, is dentelle, and has super balance,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 16-17 years 3) (a lot of Fongeant, with Moutonnes, Côte Baudin and other sites, 500-litre cask) **** dark red. Pepper, violets show on the nose, a cosy air of suave black cherry, smokiness, has good style. This has a meaty heart, and coats and strokes the palate around that via supple fruit, smooth tannins. Good foundation to this. It is long and balanced. 18-20 years 4) mainly Le Plomb, 228-litre cask) ***(*) dark red. Has a sturdy, grounded nose, which is gamey, gives an aroma of chocolate and dark fruit, some grilling, a little trail of violet. The palate runs well thanks to expressive fruit, plenty of flair. It goes into a crunchy darkness on the end, more so than the previous 2014s. This is a good, stout fellow of a wine for the final blend. Fongeant has more class, but this will blend well. “Le Plomb gives black fruit, graphite and marked tannins on the finish,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 21 years 5) (La Landonne mainly, with Côte Blonde, Côte Rozier) ****(*) correct red robe. There is a good surge of red cherry on the nose, which has a secure depth, red fruits in a liqueur style, nice intensity. The palate gives a sensuous offer of sexy red berry fruit, the texture smooth, the tannins silky. Very beau, Burgundian. It has flair and persistence. It is already on a Pinot path. Well balanced, really good. 20-22 years “The 2014 Syrah was very ripe  in phenolic terms, but was low degree – the opposite of 2015 – at 11.5° to 12°. We were very, very ripe; I destemmed because of the drosophile fruit flies, and the wine will be 12.2° to 12.3°," Jean-Paul Jamet. Dec 2015

2013 ()

½ bottle, bottled two weeks ago: shiny red robe. Has a rather close-knit aroma, blackberries grouped together with a smoky, dried herbs angle, a note of juniper, licorice, a little oak. It will build good variety. The palate bers lithe red fruit with crisp, rocky, ultimately tasty tannin. It ends with a close-knit grip, menthol moments there. It is upright, but already gives pockets of gras, and will take time to come together. The juice appears in snatches, and it is dense, so the portents are good. An interesting wine, one for the students of Côte-Rôtie. “This is like the 1980s, very fresh; it was a bit more angular when young, so requires patience. I did no racking for two years, which was necessary to give it a calm time; had I racked it, I would have risked drying out the tannins,” Jean-Paul Jamet. From 2012. 2036-39 Dec 2015 Previously Apr 2015 ***** OVERALL all the portents are good this year, a wine of great length and real depth is on the cards. It will need to be tucked away for at least a decade. Different components tasted

(Gerine, destemmed) **** good bright red. Has a curved, elegant nose, a running air of raspberry. The palate also holds clear and precise fruit, the finish nicely round, the length attractive. The exit is very tasty, like a fruit pastille. This finale is very beau, I have to say. This is 10% of the final wine; “it helps to give the wine balance,” J-P Jamet. 16-18 years.

(Fongeant mainly, plus Moutonnes, Côte Baudin, whole bunch) ****(*) good dark red; good, revved up bouquet that shows well and brightly – out it comes, gives a black berry and soaked black cherries fest. Lively fruit and crunchy tannins all come in a vigorous cocktail here. It closes down with a compact portcullis, sealed tight in texture. This is good engine room time that needs time. “It has fruit now and potential, also pleasure,” J-P Jamet. 24 years.

(La Landonne, Côte Blonde, Côte Rozier) ***** shiny, brilliant dark red. There is an expressive show on the nose, quality fruit, it glistens well, red berries with sustained depth – this is very deep. The palate gives sleek fruit on the attack. It picks up live tannins with drive and inner strength. Very good – impressive and complex. “This has a sacred persistence,” J-P Jamet – he is right; it goes extremely long, is stylish, deep and long. 26 years.

Previously Oct 2013 **** a couple of elements to have an idea, which is promising: 1) mainly Gerine 2000-2006, has been pressed, sugars done, malo not **** good red colour; attractive oily note on the nose that is deep, has layers. There is spice from the whole bunches on the palate, which moves along well, is long, and has a fresh close. There is enough weight for it to age 22 years or so – it is three-quarter weight all though. Sound balance is a good sign. 2) Le Plomb, plus Tartaras, not pressed, sugars done, malo not **** fullish red colour. Has a red fruit jam aroma, a good, oily inset. The palate is suave, continues well, is round on the finale. Gras richness is present, with the spine of Le Plomb at the end. The fruit runs consistently, and lasts well. There is a neat little aromatic show on the aftertaste. 20-22 years. Oct 2013

2012

red robe with a touch of tile at the top. Smoke and spice combine on the early nose, tobacco pouch airs. The attack is graceful, bears easy travelling fruit, has a tasty liberty, in the 2012 vein. It builds quiet intensity, inner depth, present attractive lift on the finish, perfume notes there. 2037-39 Apr 2016 Previously Apr 2015 ****(*) ½ bottle: red/purple robe, not as deep as some years. The nose has a cassis front air, with a dark red, mulberry second shot, and a well-judged floral-rock mix, very much on the violets. This is a classic schist nose. The palate is lively, on the go; the attack delivers tangy dark fruits with a pepper, licorice, mocha run. This really builds intensity, and builds from within as it finishes. Very interesting, rather intellectual, not an obvious affair. It is very schist wine, full of STGT virtues. It is not as dense as some years, but that is compensated for by its truth and access to its roots. This will please true aficionados. “It has very suave, well robed tannins, has charm and pleasure, with foundation as well,” J-P Jamet. Bottled early Nov 2014. From 2017-18. 2034-36  Apr 2015 Previously Nov 2013 **** OVERALL 2012 has a good foundation, a grounded base from which to launch its clear running fruit. The nose will please and become aromatic. Treat it like a serious Côtes de Nuits Burgundy that will gain complexity over time. Life of 20-22 years. Can become ****(*), I suspect.  Nov 2013

different components tasted: Lancement 1989 ***(*) (5-year 228-litre oak cask, destemmed) sturdy red robe. Surge of mulberry and raspberry fruit here, a bouquet that really fronts up, with earthy, a shade fungal, captures the sun. The palate is robust, open, has a clear and mineral clack in its liqueur red fruit. This is a heart of the blend wine, in rugby it would play in the scrum. 16 years.

Bonnivière, Tartaras 1991 **** (4-year 228-litre oak cask, destemmed) tight, dark berry air, a quiet quality, the background giving floral notes such as rose and violet, has capacity. The palate opens decisively, gives a free burst of fruit before being overtaken by more weighty matter. It ends on crisp, rather dry notes, its shape rectangular. Interesting specks of mineral on the palate. 17 years.

10 lieux-dits inc Côte Blonde, Rozier, Fongeant, Chavaroche, Leyat, Gerine, Moutonnes, Côte Baudin ****(*) (6-year 228-litre oak cask, whole bunch) red robe, sound colour; the nose is thickset – has a darkness that reflects the whole bunch handling, a slightly baked note, is very much feeling its way. The palate is substantial, blessed with juicy, full berry fruit and striking tannins. This is senior wine, needs time, is a real Vin de Base, right at the heart of the final wine. It picks up perfume and rose towards the finish. The exit is grainy, and still toffee-centred from its tannins. The aftertaste has a richness that stems from within, from the fibre of the wine. 18-21 years.

mainly Le Plomb 1993 and younger (8-year 228-litre oak cask, whole bunch) ***(*) shiny, quite dark red. Red berry jelly fruit air, raspberry with dark pockets at its centre, isn’t all evident. The palate is tight-knit, holds compact dark fruits, the second half wide and firm. Its tannins are noticeable, push out strongly. There is a string mineral note on the finish. “Le Plomb takes a lot of time to sort itself out,” J-P Jamet. 18 years.

also mainly Le Plomb, to see if this is more open (3-year 228-litre oak cask, whole bunch) ***(*) smoky top, dark fruit air, cassis and mocha present. The palate is well-muscled, has fibre, tight grip. Serious, unforced wine with depth and close-knit flavouring. Its shape is upright. The finish is firm, with a small stream of juice. 20 years. “It is sombre, more black-fruited, always has graphite airs,” J-P Jamet.

Leyat, Bonnivière, Côte Baudin, Moutonnes (5-year 228-litre oak cask, whole bunch) **** dark red; strong air of cassis deDijonon the front nose, has a smoky intonation, is broad, plenty to offer and holds up well. The palate gives a sleek performance – blueberry and blackcurrant fruits mingle, and it moves along directly, has good sap, offers a smooth and continuous run. Its tannins have weight, are well connected, and lots of content to support the wine over 20+ years. From 2018, for instance. Nov 2013

2011 ()

½ bottle: dark red. The nose gives the idea of whole bunch fermentation, gives oily, roasted-toasted, polished leather airs, possible acetate, fruit such as soaked cherries, cassis liqueur: this is a pretty solid bouquet. The palate is well upholstered, bears a comfortable weight of dark fruit, a sealed note of dark prune-berry flavour. There is the slight feel that this has worked hard to give as much as it does – it doesn’t have the relaxed pedigree of 2010 or 2012. I feel it is marked by its bottling 26 days ago. The exit is smoky, grainy. There is less acidity than 2010 and 2012. A low-key pocket of attractive juice appears towards the finish, a brief and sympa fruit pastille moment. This is more on elegance than depth. 12.8°. “It has a subtlety that you’ll never find in 2010 and 2012; there is a small spark of magic in the vintage. It reminds me of 1991. It tasted a lot better six months ago,” Jean-Paul Jamet: he puts up a spirited defence of the vintage! From 2017-18. 2030-32  Oct 2013 Previously Oct 2012 ****(*) different components tasted: + Chavaroche 1983/Lancement 1989, 15% of the final wine ***(*) (12 year 550-litre cask) dark red, black tints at its centre. Blackberry jam or fruit pastille air, has licorice siding – the bouquet is round and agreeable, has a bit of earthy depth as well. Good typicty on the palate; it accentuates flowers, offers round, quite smoky red fruit, with bite after half way, needs to curve its finish. It persists steadily. “this is my most tender terroir, has an airborne side, but there is depth, and an elegance and freshness of a wine from the North,” J-P Jamet. 16 years.

+ 35% Mornachon 1988/65% Le Plomb 1973, 1993, notably schist blend, 15% of the final wine **** (10 year 550-litre cask) sound dark red; raspberry, nicely juicy air, the schist brings spice, has a tight air, a bit of cordite and smoke. The palate is also tight, well sealed. Red cherry fruit stretches out well, very good continuity here. It is a Burgundian style wine, with no gaps in it. Balance and harmony feature, so is appealing on its own. Does not have big stuffing, but is very likeable. 18 years. “We harvested these sites after the weekend of rain – we couldn’t wait longer, and the crop wasn’t big anyway,” J-P Jamet.

+ La Gerine 2000, 18-20% of the final wine **** (10+ year 550-litre cask) shiny, full plum red colour; this has a broad canvass nose, a layered fullness with violet, scented, notably mulled red fruits, blueberry and raspberry. There is reduction. The palate starts on a pretty, scented note, bears clarity and loose-limbed appeal; it goes on a wander, not a straight run, has pockets of mystery. An engine room wine with a good, complete, broad finish. The reduction is a very good sign, shows the wine has volume and is balancing itself well. 18 years.

+ Fongeant (1991, gras wines), Moutonnes (1978, severe style wines), Côte Baudin (1993, 1997, dense wines), Leyat (1968, 1999, tight, structured wines), 15% of the final wine ***** (used 228-litre cask) formidable red robe; bosky, smoky, misty woods are in the air, hedgerow fruits – autumn reaches the senses here, berries, with a note of vanilla. Full fruit fronts it, with a backdrop inside that is floral, primrose. The palate is graceful. The acidity is fine in this stylish wine, has prolonged class, up a gear from the previous 2011 blends. There is a great fit between its tannins and plump fruit, while there is a smoky swing to it. Good balance. “It needs more time, which is why it is in 288-litre cask, rather than 550-litre cask,” J-P Jamet. The length is good and steady, with its fruit quietening in a stylish way. 22 years.

72% La Landonne 1987, 23% Côte Blonde 1943, with a little Côte Rozier 1943, Moutonnes 1978, 15+% of the final wine ****(*) dark red; bulky, big scale nose that simmers with ripe intent, a full scenario that comes with a subdued floral angle, and a Catherine Wheel of smoky fruit. The palate reveals grain-graphite flecked notes, and is very northern sector Côte-Rôtie, in its coffee, toast, grippy nature. It sets off at pace, is active and filled together. Adhesive, firm tannins fir in well, and the finish is lifted, Smoky Joe there. “It has depth, will last,” J-P Jamet. 22 years.

+ Leyat 1968, 1999, Tartaras 1991, Truchet 1968, the last to harvest, 15-20% of the final wine **** (used 550-litre cask) thick dark red; cassis and cassis leaf, the first time this fruit has featured, on the nose – it is smoothly aired, has a sweet-noted offer, is warmer and a bit more generous than the previous blends, shows raspberry as well. It is also a bit over 13°. The palate has a gras, wide start with that ample note present and continuing. Not much mystery here, the cards are on the table. It closes around tannins, and is I note its firm support on the finish, a buttressed ending. 21 years.

OVERALL ****(*) one can imagine the swan effect – glide on the surface, much beavering away under the surface – here to achieve a relative amount of structure, and depth. It will be a very enjoyable year, showing well its harmony and smooth texture in impressive fashion around 2018-23, a real winner then. Life to 3030-33. “There were a lot of complications in 2011, so to have these wines is almost unimaginable,” J-P Jamet. It is around 12.55°. Oct 2012

2010

½ bottle: shiny, handsome red robe. Mulberry, brightly scented fruit, Big Bounty here, has an air of cassis jam, deep filling, a subtle licorice note with it. The palate is rolled  into a bundle of virile flavour, spreads widely and has real thrust and length. It is “big” in a relative way – copious wine, with no chinks. It gives the 2010 abundance and freshness combined. Wait for this. It shows good vigour on the finish, which is well charged and fresh at the same time. “Very belle matter here – it delivers well now, but there was so much ripeness of crop that it expresses well now, and may shut down in five to six years, a serious close-down when it does,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 13°. 2035-38  May 2013  Previously Oct 2012 ****** bottling in 1 month, mid-Nov 2012: + Lancement ***** (from the Blonde zone, late 1980s Syrah, the only plot destemmed in 2010, used 550-litre cask) ***** full red; broad, insistent berry aroma, has an oily, mature fruit air, comes with bosky, also coffee notes. The palate has a sizeable, wide start, bears smoky, dark fruits with a lot of atnnin circling and within. The aftertaste is smoked, resembles cured bacon, with very intense red berry. On the finish there are dark notes such as dark chocolate, a tang of praline, a bitter note and almost a sense of coconut. This is scale in contrast to the free tuned 2011. There is variety to come, and mystery to unravel over time. 26 years.

Gerine ****(*) (1.4 ha, from the northern zone, schist, bare soils, 2000-2002 Syrah, whole crop, used 228-litre cask) dark tints in the robe; solid, compact block of red stone fruit, also game, and smoke of cordite and fireworks. The palate is very similar – chunky, close-knit, with adhesive tannins. A real wall of Bon Vin here – big, notable length. Very thorough, complete, it ends on a fresh snap of black-fruited clarity. 27 years.

Fongeant (1991), Côte Baudin (1993, 1997), Leyat (1968, 1999) in used 550-litre cask ***** shiny, full red; smoke, coffee aroma – the bouquet gives an image of compact, even tiny, concentrated grapes with a cassis air that is tight-knit, no holes, waiting to unfurl; there is a nice float of flowers behind, a subtle presence. The palate’s dark fruits are grouped in a block on debut, before it quietens. This has ripeness and sinew, a real winning combination of depth and balance and future style. Long, very long. Has a smoky, roasted aftertaste. 26 years.

+ Le Plomb (1973, 1993), Truchet (1968), used 550-litre cask ***** well sustained, dark red; sizzling bacon, gummy black berry fruit aroma, layers of density, vanilla, iris and violet, a touch of over-ripeness of crop (this was the last plot harvested). The palate bears attractive, supple, mulled fruits that come in a coulis style, that richness; the tannin is agile, really tasty, a great performer. You can lie on the mattress of tannin here, and feel good. Fresh life runs through this, so it ends up stylishly, Burgundian, long and accomplished. Good mineral grip. “To get this quality of tannin, we went to the extra ripeness of the crop,” J-P Jamet. 27 years.

+ Moutonnes (1978), Chavaroche (1983), used 550-litre cask ***** bright, engaging red robe; oily, bonny plummy air, sweet and curvy, also has smoke, vanilla, seasoning. This is plump, even fat Côte-Rôtie, big chested, gourmand style of wine with a sprinkle of light dust tannins in its final stages. There is entrancing delicacy at first, then tasty late fruit, expressive it is. Balance and length good. 25 years

+ 68% La Landonne (1987), 28% Rochains (1988), 4% Côte Blonde (1943) used 228-litre cask ****** shiny, legs, dark red with purple. Lovely, violet, oily-inky air of black berry fruit with drive, life in it, tar and a sizzle of bacon, soaked red cherries at its centre. This has a stylish attack, shows its class straight away. There is a silky texture, then the arrival of clear-cut tannins, so it ends freshly, and extensively, completely. Clear fruit, accessible, lovely length. A firm foundation wine which help the rest of the elements to live. 28 years

+ an example of the assemblage in a used 228-litre cask ****** good, full, rather thick red; raspberry, pretty scenting in its luxury of aroma, licorice, raspberry coulis – waves of aroma roll out; the fruit is curvy, and will impress. The palate has a squeezy texture red fruit, the fruit accessible, almost of the southern sector, followed by the snap and grain of the northern sector - that zone’s tannins. Good bustle and energy in its later stages, lots of flair there, élan, and the signature of Grand Vin. Very persistent and striking, very good balance. This cask is composed of bits of the previous wines from their casks. The blend of “so much” has been a triumph this year if this is the yardstick. From 2015-16, no hurry. 2039-41 Oct 2012

Previously Nov 2010 ***** 3 sites tasted to get an idea: Lancement ***** (from the Blonde zone, late 1980s Syrah, destemmed, sugars completed, malo not, steel tank) full, very belle colour. Rich foundation to nose, has a persistent core, dead centre, keeps going there well, shows a little licorice, burnt tar/rubber. The palate is thoroughly fruited, has good sides – “thorough” is the word. Good length, it is even a little square at the finish. Good acidity, and an open nature. Burgundian clarity here. Promising, frank wine. 18 years. Gerine ****(*) (1.4 ha, from the northern zone, schist, bare soils, 2000-2002 Syrah, whole crop, sugars yes, malo not yet, steel tank) dark colour; broad and rich nose, has a becoming depth to it, offers black jam airs, young fruit simmering in the saucepan. Chocolate, coffee, spice and mulberry fruit also in it – is very varied. Dark fruits lead on the palate, but are always elegant and tasty, with fine tannin enclosure at the end. It is fine, despite its ripeness. All the elements are here for a very big evolution, I find this superb, especially given the youth of the vines. “It is very concentrated, but fresh,” J-P Jamet. Moutonnes & Chavaroche ****** (either side of the Brune, “opposite but complementary, they ripened at the same time this year”, fibre glass tank, sugars yes, malo not yet) : “I felt it was a density of tannin year, nearly virile. My Moutonnes wines can be reductive, and so the Moutonnes can be helped by the more elegant Chavaroche that would facilitate its cask raising.” Purple, black robe. There is already harmony on the nose, which has a beguiling, spherical shape, black cherry the main fruit. “It is already silky on the nose”, J-P Jamet. The palate holds a good, frim couch, with a stream of direction from its tannins – goes, like Olympique de Marseille, droit au but, straight to the goal. Shows a pleasing gras richness after half way, ends on clear, mineral freedom. Interesting, complex wine. Fab clarity and class. OVERALL ***** highly promising, even exciting wine of class, purity and balance. Life of 20+ years, but definite early enjoyment on offer. 10% destemmed this year. Nov 2010

2009 ()

½ bottle: attractive red robe. The nose is still young – gives raspberry jam, solar airs, some liqueur fruit, an undertone of earthiness - depth from that. The palate is compact, close-knit, has inner strength – it breathes that. This is very much an above the soil wine, weather-affected rather than terroir as it stands. It builds as it goes, is still very young. Its tannins are smoky, full. From 2015. 2034-36  Oct 2013 Previously Oct 2012 ****(*) ½ bottle: dark red, rather thick robe. The bouquet has the oiliness of a warm summer, a plum jam, some smoke and coffee behind its raspberry fruit. The palate has a broad, compelling debut, runs with purpose; there is a fine line of graphite tannin on the final stages. A muscular sort of wine, locked up. It has meaty, beefy connotations towards the finish; it shows a note of baked bread, brioche on the aftertaste. It can reach ****(*) – wait for that. There are glints of breeze, life in its red palate fruit now. From 2016-17. “It is becoming more profound over time, a very good sign for its future; it was very broad, but is picking up freshness and depth now,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2033-35  Oct 2012  Previously Nov 2010 ***** a wide range of sites tasted in cask: Lancement **** (from the Blonde zone, late 1980s Syrah, destemmed, 13.6°, used 500-litre oak cask) more aged in 500-litre oak casks this year, with 17% new (down from 20%), and 50%+ in 600-litre oak casks (“2009 was a year that needed less oxygen”) there is a throb of warm sun in the bouquet, the fruits mulled, a sense of ripe power. The palate is immediately rich, runs across the palate, is not especially focused, and charges on under its early momentum, has mass and weight. 17 years. Gerine **** (whole bunch, used 500 litre oak cask) steady plum red robe; the nose has ripe soaked red cherries fruit, with a cautionary outer air, a sort of toffee, baked, tobacco smoke note. Rich debut to the palate – really good density here. It lengthens well, is balanced, expressive, is more fluid than Lancement. 20 years. Gerine ****(*) (this time in 6 year 228-litre oak cask) healthy red robe; full bouquet, has a proper depth of ripeness but knows its limits, not in excess. There is good “steel” in the palate, comes with a good tension, is compact and tightly wrapped. Good length. 18-20 years. Chavaroche mainly, with Fongeant ****(*) bright red; smoky bacon, red cherry airs, a good ensemble on the bouquet that is deep and still refined. Good strike of red fruit on the palate – this has virile, straight along qualities, is young and not especially forthcoming. Good pure, fine fruit at its centre. Has a careful structure, and avoids 2009 opulence. 20-22 years. Le Plomb ****(*) (5 year 228-litre oak cask) rather full red; the nose is compact, and is on the solar 2009 track, ripe red fruits, while a smoky, ash backdrop hovers, pebbles and dust. The attack has life, energy straight away – this rocks along openly and expressively, is easy to appreciate. Good, clear ending. 18 years. Mornachon **** (schist, 320 m altitude, windy site) good robe; brioche, baked red fruits nose. Good spine of fresh tannin and cut, good life here. It ticks over well late on, is frisky. It escapes the solar side of 2009. There is a nice tingle of breeze through it, the fruit is workmanlike, not refined. “helpful acidity for the blend,” J-P Jamet. 19 years. Moutonnes & Côte Baudin, a little Leyat ***** thorough red; smoky, refined red cherry air with licorice – a good bouquet that sets it up well. Its richness is lined with smoky tannins, and this has a late ash-like moment. Very good length. Real quality fruit here – this will provide class to the wine. “It is dense and tight, but not austere,” J-P Jamet. OVERALL it will reach ***** status under the careful cellar handling, but I sense that the main challenge has been to bridle its fullness and to give it direction through the palate. Finesse has not been easy to achieve this year. 2030-33 Nov 2010

2008 ()

½ bottle: level red, fair depth to it. Smoky front air, along with medicinal, cough mixture notes, pumice stone and flint; the most fruit comes from some lurking blackberry. The palate is crisp, but reaches out, runs on sinew. This is a classic slow developer wine; it weaves along the palate. Has an interesting future, is rated on its potential if left to mature. 40% destemmed, aged 95% 228-litre, 5% 600-litre oak casks this year, bottled mid-September 2010. From 2012. 2022-23 Nov 2010 Previously Dec 2008 Cask 1 * (5 yr cask, from Leyat, Bonnivière, Grand Taillis, 50% destemmed, sugars finished, chaptalised up to 12.5°) airy cherry fruit aroma, red jam and vanilla. Peppery, black-fruited palate – it is straight down the line late on, the fruit stops. Some length on this. Life of 10 years. Cask 2 *(*) (7 yr cask, Chavaroche, Fontgeant, Moutonnes, whole bunch, sugars, malo completed) reduction, but the bouquet is pretty wide. The palate bears black fruits that are broader than anticipated – this has a fragrant, floral blackberry flavour, some appeal. Tapers a bit at the end. 12 years or so. Overall 50% destemmed in 2008, versus 25% in 2007, and usually zero. Dec 2008

2007

there is a gentle evolution on the robe. The bouquet mixes up cooked stone fruits, cloves, resin, exotic airs - it is a little foxy and is currently in transit. The palate produces red cherries, smokiness, has a cool thread, lengthening with a sure hand, the length confident. It is moving gradually forward in the style of a cool vintage. “It is very fresh, juicy,” Loïc Jamet. 2033-35  April 2016 Previously Nov 2010 ***** beckoning, full dark plum robe. Smoky mineral first airs on the nose, with a sofa of flowers below – there is potential in its depth, and it has very soft sides. There is latent black fruit jam in the background, and an air of cocoa comes through after 1 hour open. The palate is out and running, has a very bonny fullness, real width, ending on a smoky, graphite flourish. At first it is a bit compact and static, but it shows less puppy fat after 45 minutes open, having been decanted. The mid-palate is wonderful, and notably impressive since there was hail this year, and that can leave a hollow point or two. Has luxurious richness, a fab aftertaste, a real carpet of pleasure. Complex, has a great future ahead. Redcurrants emerge on the long finish after 90 minutes. 2026-28 Nov 2010, Copenhagen. I prefer this to the ½ bottle 10 days earlier chez Jamet that was **** with the start of turn, game on the nose, with also cocoa, coffee airs, along with lavender and herbs. The palate had more weight than the nose suggested – a wide mass of red fruit that was not especially clear-cut before straightening out. It was in transition, with a broad spread and a smacking, gummy finale. “It is exceptionally well balanced, a complex year,” Jean-Paul Jamet. “I raised it carefully, since I didn`t want it to be peaking too soon, and I rate it can have a life of 15 to 20 years.” Nov 2010, Ampuis Previously ****(*) (casks) (casks) 1) La Landonne & Gerine, 550-litre cask *(*), “both hailed on so crop of only 10 hl/ha, where paradoxically we picked earliest and had the highest degree of 13.3°, but remember there was very little crop left on the vines, which took 4 weeks to regain their progress”: full red, peppery nose, crème of blackberry, and blackcurrant leaf in it. The palate offers cautious black fruit that has a point of density in it. It tapers a little towards the finish, its tannins are forward and a touch stiff. 2) Chavaroche mostly, Fongeant, 550-litre cask, racked yesterday **** full red, some black in robe; crackly, crunchy black fruit aroma – it is smoky, laced with pine, also simmering blackberries that have a round air. Good burst of blackberry fruit that rolls along well on palate. It ends with violet in the flavour, is a fine wine. 10-15% of the final wine – it is broad and sweet towards the finish, and these sites give low acidity wines. 3) Mornachon, 228-litre cask **** dark robe; bright, compact fruit, has a mild blackberry liqueur air. Pretty, chewy fruit no the palate that is linear from its high terroir, but keeps going very well – taste of black cherry. Tasty, very good potential, good life in it. 15-17 years. 4) Lancement (elegant) Le Plomb (virile), 228-litre cask, ***** dark red; interesting, varied nose – the top air is floral with a dark fruits, smoky underlay. The oxide of Le Plomb prevails on the palate – this has clear, graphite-style fruit, then at the end there is florality in the air. Very beau, sympa – a Real Beauty, it is wide and sustained, very poised and long. 18-20 years. 5) Moutonnes, Côte Baudin, Leyat, all picked at 130 days after flowering, 228-litre cask ****(*) full robe; gummy, reductive outer air but there is a spiced black fruit within – this has marked life. The blackberry fruit is forward on the palate, it has plenty of heart and rocks on well with good vigour, length, clear finish. Very good spine here – its tannins clarify and frame the wine. “There is good density of tannin, with no dryness,” J-P Jamet. OVERALL ****(*) assembly will be important here, with the hail-afflicted crop only a small portion but it will need astute handling. The base elements are bountiful, and there is real pedigree from some of the sites, a very exact terroir expression. A life of 20 years, and a most appealing wine in the making, a top Côte-Rôtie this year, no doubt. ****(*) for now. Dec 2008

2006

(half bottle) quite a full red robe; the interior of the bouquet reveals cherry fruit that is edged with a fresh, smoky, menthol effect. This is supplemented by softer floral, rose, honey airs. The palate holds a set of black fruits that are compact and purposeful – the mid-palate is tasty, and it ends on a sympa richness. Tannins for now close down and freshen the finish. This has really fun fruit, a great singer – chanteur - of a wine in the making. Only 8% destemmed this year, bottled Sept 2008. From 2011, although can be drunk now on its early glamour. “The fruit is ripe, a wine of pedigree, a classic style of year,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2025-27 Dec 2008 Previously June 2007 ***(*) overall from different sites (casks) Lancement above the Blonde, 550-litre cask *** wide, supple aroma; black fruit with good acidity swirls on the palate, fine and elegant wine with decent late width, is very ripe. Chavaroche, 550-litre cask *** peppery nose, modest depth of black fruit. Black fruits with some late sweetness, earthiness, fair length. 13.3°. Côte Baudin, 228-litre cask **** bonny, woven, well-set raspberry aroma. Round fruit with some kick and breadth, flows well. Very good berry fruit and a clear, long mineral finish. Good central element for the wine, can live 16 years. Fongeant, Le Plomb, 228-litre cask ***(*) firm, compact black cherry nose. Knit, chunky palate with muscled tannins. Marked mineral texture around the fruit. La Landonne 70%, Côte Blonde 20%, Moutonnes 10% 228-litre cask ****(*) bright, black robe; Rounded aroma of soaked black cherries, some freshness, too. Pretty fruit, with a tight but suave texture on the outside, and good heart inside it. Ripe, quite solid tannins, an interesting assemblage. 16 years. Gerine, the most northerly plot, 228-litre cask **(*) light red fruits nose; simple, accessible clear-cut fruit with some late sweetness. OVERALL ***(*) an aromatic vintage, with plenty going for it. There will be freshness in the wine, and the fruit will dance about. There is enough backbone to allow the wine a sound middle age, and it should live for around 15-19 years. Say, ***(*) June 2007

2005

½ bottle: bright robe with a good, dark core – red with black tints. The nose is tight, circulates with wood smoke, has a touch vegetal and dark airs, bacon or smoked pork. Viscose, “shiny” black cherry with licorice and graphite edges on the palate. This is very young, a purposeful wine that packs a clean punch, has no flab on it. The second half of the palate is wide and live. Reserved, a slow developer with tingly tannin and a crunchy fruit end, leading to a very sleek aftertaste. Classic wine. Even in a half bottle, this is moving forward very slowly. From 2014, say. “It is vintage marked; it is the only year I have fined recently to refine its tannins,” J-P Jamet. 2031-35 Nov 2010 Previously June 2007 ***** for 80% of the final wine, 228-litre cask ***** full robe; wide aroma, with plenty of black fruit and raspberry, plus some meatiness. Rich, full matter start to the palate, with a brooding dark element as its tannins come in. It finishes solidly, rather than gracefully. I like its core richness and this peppery black fruit especially. Good, lots of running in it. 2029-31 20% of the final wine, 228-litre cask (from Moutonnes and Mornachon mainly, dense terroirs that give dense wine) ****(*) solid, tight bouquet with black fruit, a little cocoa and coffee bean. Access to the fruit stops at half way along the palate, a stop sign marked TANNINS and their chunky friends prevail. J-P is right to leave this muscled wine longer than usual before bottling. Present are plum, stone fruits, plus coffee and raisin cake, but it is infused with good freshness. Needs patient cellaring – do not drink early. Has a lot going for it. Ends on a brisk, mineral note. “1995 was a bit like this – it is still very hard to get at today,” J-P Jamet. June 2007 Previously April 2006 (casks) different sites tasted - theme is for rich, grounded wine, with the bonus of a fresh, clear finale - it promises to be full and complex. Tannins are ripe and well set. A very good bundle of elements, and a cracking wine in prospect. April 2006

2004 ()

magnum, Paris: red core, evolving top to the robe. Mixture if flowers and mineral on the nose which is rather profound, has a raspberry-earthy undertone along with violet notes. Its quiet insistence is helpful. Clarity rides out front on the palate, delivered with a flinty texture or tang. It lengthens on its sinew. It is a touch restricted, cautious, a wee bit lean. Ends on floral and graphite notes. Not yet really unlocked, can be woken up to declare more. Not a big wine – its length is sound, and it is a correct, fresh vintage offering. Bit shaped like a Médoc. 2022-24 if magnum, take off four years if a bottle. Feb 2011 Previously May 2008 ***(*) has quite a pretty red, plus purple, bright robe; The bouquet is good and lively. The fruit on first opening dances forward, with a little of the barn-farmyard in behind. There is some curve in the aroma, and the air will unleash crisper red fruits, which have some spice trimming. There is nice and secure fruit, with a well-clad ensemble of matter around it. The pedigree of the place comes through here – it has well-founded structure, the fruit is young but rounded, and the tannins still show some attitude, wee bite. The fruit is indeed pretty – plum and wild strawberry, the latter denoting some elegance. The length is correct on this three-quarter weight wine. Decant it now, or wait until late 2008, early 2009 for a more open palate. High pressure days are also best for drinking it now. 12.5°. 2018-20 May 2008, Stockholm Previously April 2006 ***(*) (casks) tasted by different plots, also an assembled example in April 2006: heading for one of the best 2004s, solid centre, with a good dash of fruit, lot of berry aroma on the nose. Good tannic structure, with decent ripeness. From about 2008. To about 2020-22. April 2006

2003 ()

half bottle April 2006 pretty full robe. Open, thrusting bouquet, violet and smoked black fruits, a sense of white pepper, also polish. Ripe fruit impact at start, and the tannins are ripe, too. Fruit moves well before a slight halt. Aftertaste is rich enough - violet/damson, mineral enters near the finish, an unusual element. A real mixed bag that is travelling in different directions. From 2008. To 2021-23 Previously (casks) *** tarmac, floral bouquet, compact. Stewed red berries, bit reduced. Soft, jammy fruit gum style, is homogeneous, touch of the south, garrigue herbs, on finish. 2007 on. 2016-18

2002

earthy side, with floral trimming on bouquet. Tasty, straight fruit, clear cut and pretty, some pepper. Fair length, cool finale. Good, drinkable wine, chaptalised texture. 2006 on. To 2011-13

2001

(cask) elements show brewed fruit, spice and some game aspects, typical; structure good, crushed fruit, nicely dark, with tannic potential. 2019-22

2000

still pretty steady red; there are floral airs above a meaty, hung game, reductive at first nose. Red fruit shows beyond those influences, and will release with breathing; there is a violet wrap around it. There is a glint of fine fruit, a true Child of the Schist, on the palate, real pedigree; it has a delicate, attractive grain texture. The finish is a little dry, but its snap is clear and distinguished. Good, typical, STGT wine of good length. As it airs, the finish becomes more weighty and more dense, bringing in red jam to the flavour. 12.5° 2024-24  March 2011  Previously *** open nose, earthy, very ripe black fruits/olives, southern; typical Syrah of yore - black fruit/spice/pepper. Brewed wine, hearty, best when older, esp 2007-08. Not that clear-cut. 2014-15

1999

the top of the robe is tiled. The bouquet has a rich intensity at its heart, with airs of squeezy, still vibrant fruit and earthy, dark soil notes as well. This is well founded, comes with butty content, and starts to take off towards the finish, where it is full of running. It isn’t quite punchy, but is close to that. It still has its vintage solar veil ahead of the terroir. Decanting a good idea. The vintage effect will give ground from now on. 13°. 2033-36  April 2016 Previously ***** ripe, sunny varied berry aromas, potential; rich, stewed fruits attack, sappy, confit; delicious raspberry, tasty wine. Still very young. More complexity around 2010. 2018-21

1998

floral/earthy mix, stewed fruit bouquet; blackberry, juicy touches, well clad with tar, licorice, oiliness. Pepper, camphor/tar end as tannins of the year take over. Esp 2006-07. To 2018-21

1997 ()

black cherries, ripe smoked aromas, farmyard; lots of black fruit, concentrated taste, decent ripe tannins. Fair power. Honest, touch rustic. Esp 2004 on. 2011-14

1996

good, brambly cooked fruits/olives nose; big, full start, then skips, then hits a dark finish. Funky, quite wild. Noticeable tannins. From 2004. 2012-15

1995 ()

good, brambly cooked fruits/olives nose; big, full start, then skips, then hits a dark finish. Funky, quite wild. Noticeable tannins. From 2004. 2012-16

1994 ()

oily, southern aroma, rose petal edge; big vintage wine, full, touch volatile, burnt end. Needs more fruit

1990 ()

decent colour. Very stewed, stone fruit aroma. Ripe, sappy flavour: has direction, though. Quite a "thick" wine à l´ancienne. Fair length, is still OK, if a little brewed up. 2009-10 March 2003, Ampuis