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The Wines

100% Syrah (0.4 ha 1930s-1940s, 0.15 ha 1983, 1993), S-W facing 0.55 hectare plot bought by Joseph Jamet in 1948, next to La Turque & Marius Gentaz plots, vineyard in bad shape, the first vines he bought, can be up to 10% destemmed according to vintage quality, 18-21 day vinification, pumping overs on whole bunch crop, cap punching on destemmed grapes, aged 25% new (before 2014 was 30-35% new), 60-75% 2-10 year 500-litre oak casks 22 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine on its own 1976, 2,000+ b

2016

(12 year 228-litre cask) dark red. The nose comes with airs of entrails, tripe, a cooked, sweet intensity of red fruits, has a real slow burn persistence. There’s a refined southern richness in it.  The palate issues a mineral theme from the off, a fine and silken thread of freshness inside suave gras richness, tangy late fruits, smoky ground force, clear as cigarette ash tannins. Wow! This is some wine, is Grand Vin. The flavour runs on cooked plums, has a sensuous feel, sap or sève from the old vines. It captures the imagination, has bingo balance. Eat your heart out, Pomerol! “The Côte Brune gives complexity and magic of balance. We can do the elegance of Bordeaux and the structure of Burgundy – we are between the two of them,” J-P Jamet. 2044-46 Nov 2017

2015

bottled yesterday: dark red robe, a black centre. Meat-iron, fat depth on the nose, which is tucked up from bottling, soaked red cherries or griottes and raspberry liqueur airs denoting the strength of the vintage. The palate is virile, a bundle of smoky blueberry fruit, tar, crisp and deep tannins, punch. It holds real multi-layered cassis fruit, licorice towards the finish. The juice is concentrated, involves blueberry, juice which emerges from a rocky fissure, flanked by the rocks. This has extreme length. This is great STGT wine. From 2025 or later. 2050-54 Nov 2017 Previously Apr 2016 ****** (600-litre cask) bright, full red robe. Raspberry and mulberry airs, with a floral snap; the nose is rich and abundant, more so than in most years. It goes deep, and is most beguiling, combining as well smoke, lots of violet, bacon. The palate is smoky, floral, holds fine fruits, concentrated small berries. It persists, has crisp strength – there is real ground force here, with a build in meatiness and density as it ends. From 2024. 2050-55 Apr 2016

2014 ()

(600-litre cask) attractive red robe. Smoky red fruits, graphite, soft floral notes come with a musky presence. It’s a bouquet that has “spine”. The palate flirts with a stylish oiliness; this is rocky fissure wine with pep and clarity in its tannin. It is long, well modelled. Verry good access to the terroir here, is an STGT wine that is very consistent through the palate. It has a smoky, lead pencil close, is insistent on that source. “There are floral notes here,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2043-45 Apr 2016 Previously Dec 2015 ****(*) (500-litre cask) dark red, light rim at the top. Has an engaging, immediate bouquet, lots to display, a wholesome aroma of mulled blackberries, loganberries – it goes widely, is more open and on the go than usual for the Brune at this stage. This is smoky, glinting wine – rocky fissures, good cut, a tight constitution. It lengthens well, with real STGT qualities – it captures the Brune extremely well, delivers the naked properties of it. It develops its crunchy Brune character from within, has class and truth. Excellent, has bundles of character. “It is already delicious, is fin and fresh,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2036-39  Dec 2015

2013

½ bottle, bottled two weeks ago: dark red, a sombre colour. Has a bustling, black berry depth on the nose, which is wide and pretty copious, is deeply set, comes with some meat, feral influences, a hint of violet. It is broad and widely curved. This is sturdy, well channelled, holds a compact, close-knit content, builds notable tannin on the finish. It has barely got going, is intense. Its rocky provenance kicks in at the mid-point, and it then runs with solid juice and live crunch tannin. This is going to be impressive. The close is snappy. Good, rigorous, promising wine. “There is a lot of flesh around the tannins, even if it is a solid wine,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 13°. 2039-42  Dec 2015 Previously Apr 2015 ****** (8 year 600-litre oak cask) shiny, full red robe. This is THE BUSINESS: it has a rolling air of shapely, stylish dark red berries, caressed by violets across it. Wonderful purity and inner depth here. The palate links closely, picks up the fine clarity and effortless depth of the nose with crunch and rock face tang, pieces of crushed rocks, on the prolonged finish. This is very wonderfully complete Côte-Rôtie, with chiselled, good pedigree features. This is one for the mineral lovers, whose sideline is to taste stones. Pepper, cloves and flowers mingle in the aftertaste. Way To Go wine, what a pleasure. 2,000 b this year. Pure Gold. 2043-46  Apr 2015

2012

attractive red, a good start. Curved, noble Pinote airs feature in a well rounded bouquet, raspberry fruit. It lingers and floats, gives velvet with iron. This is floral, spiced, stylish, holds red berries with effortless concentration. It keeps trucking along with resolve, has excellent lift, variety, grace at the end. The finish is excellent. Fresh, intellectual and sensuous. Brilliant wine. From 2022. 2041-43 Apr 2016 Previously Apr 2015 ***** ½ bottle: dark red robe. There is appealing concentration of fruit on the nose, raspberry fruit spice, cloves and dusty plains of the south as well. It has a bracing quality. This has its wagons of iron and tannin drawn closely round the camp fire. The floral strike in it is lasting as well, and it all goes in the right direction. It is still quite raw, is spinal and starkly defined today with a very clearly struck flavour. This is a slow gainer, very Burgundian of the Côtes de Nuits. There is lead pencil persistence in spades here – it really sticks to one’s gums with its intense, compressed red fruit. Bottled Nov 2014. From 2019. 2037-39  Apr 2015 Previously Nov 2013 ***** (4 year 228-litre oak cask) full red robe, wee violet tints. The nose is grilled, roasted, breathes the great Côte; well-set red fruit lies at its heart, with red meat droplets. There are oak nudges here, the sides full of raspberry and baked moments. Its darkness is good and typical. A very typical Brune in its dark mystery; it surfaces on some minerality near the finish, and needs a good, extended raising to come together. The aftertaste lasts well. Has good cut; there is a good, fresh axis for this, with its relatively southern depth. STGT wine, a classic example of that: you dive in deeply, but as you surface near the end you capture violet and mineral on the up. From 2020. “Violet always comes through in the Côte Brune,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2037-39  Nov 2013

2011 ()

½ bottle: good dark red; the bouquet brims up well, an ample depth of mulberry fruit, some hay, rubbed stones, an oily essence. The palate has a spark of clarity, starts on running dark fruits with real go-go, carries a gras richness of measured depth. Its tannins are quite forceful, and finish it with vigour. It is tight, but can loosen in 5 to 6 years. This is sturdy wine, with a graphite-inspired close. Bottled 5 October, 26 days ago. 13°. From 2018-19. 2032-34 Oct 2013 Previously Oct 2012 ****(*) (7 year 228-litre oak cask) comfortable, not very profound red; there is a fine tune of grain and dust in the air, an undernote of blackberry fruit, tree bark, coffee, then a discreet violet wrap around, and licorice. There is good dash in the black cherry debut, with smoky, sub-animal influences. It shows a poised elegance, but there is a firm, tight-knit base. It is pretty manly, with the mineral inflexion of its soil in its veins. It ends with tight, smoky grip, a cassis, nutty flavour. It is roughly hewn now, the palate upright. It feels likely to yield stylishly, with the length already showing along those lines. From 2018 or so. “It has a balance all on its own, more so than the other source vineyards,” J-P Jamet. 2033-35  Oct 2012

2010

½ bottle: purple, dark red robe with violet tints, lots of legs on show. The nose is shapely, aromatic, has hidden depths of mulberry fruit, stylish waves of it, all very seductive and promising. There are airs of grated or rubbed stones, and it is really hard to pin down the aroma easily, which is great – you “touch” the rock with this nose. The palate debut is tight – this has a lot of depth, underlay, is a real feet on the ground wine. It picks up its iron and aroma on the end, straddles Brune depth and Blonde aromatics, a sign of this great vintage. There is high elegance and hauteur in it, a mighty finesse as it goes, with all its content on youth and smoky potential. It is indeed complex, is super attractive, long and complete. A treat to encounter you, dear Sir! There are cassis, blackcurrant, flashes of fruit between the pumice stone and fruit notes. The aftertaste is smoky. From 2020. “It has density, but also elegance and floral notes, it is magic, really,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 13°. 2039-42  May 2013  Previously Oct 2012 ****** (6 year 228-litre cask, bottling in 1 month, mid-Nov 2012) wholesome dark red; has a ground coffee bean aroma, pine needle, and then a meat, spice follow through. Soaked red cherries, griottes, are the main fruit influence. Light notes of licorice, too, with grilling. The palate is wide-shouldered, has a dark, meaningful intensity. It coats and persists, really has volume and texture. There is a heartening depth of black fruit flavour, with tar and licorice and an arrow-like long finish. There is a warm roundness in its texture, a silken flow, so it brilliantly mixes dark intent, depth and class. The scale is big – this needs time, until 2018 at least. 2038-40  Oct 2012

2009

½ bottle: sound red robe, wee purple. Smoky, graphite and cordite, elegant raspberry air with definite reserves for future display and variety, an STGT wine, one of the Brune in its smoked panoply. The palate has a herb, near garrigue influence on the attack, a plum red fruit with a bonny dusting of tannin. A sprinkle of flowers appears on the end, rose petals and iris. Complex, knit, serious, grown-up wine. It is bang on the Brune, a real hot example of its soil and capabilities. It ends with a great, mixed note of fruit and soil – the air and the land. The magic of the terroir is very hot but it is balanced, fresh. From 2017. 2034-37  Oct 2012  Previously Nov 2010 ****** (6 year 600-litre cask) sound red robe with consistent depth; smoky bacon, charcuterie aroma, with a tight red fruit and some floating floral airs – the nose is potentially complex. There is a tiny bit of protective reduction. The palate is sturdy, has a thick heart, and is really grounded, comes with a lot firm depth. The red fruit is very thorough, its richness ingrained, not showy. A high quality wine that mixes the muscle of the “south” from its hot year with a good Northern Rhône terroir of Brune firmness. Good length, STGT wine. 2031-34 Nov 2010

2008

½ bottle: pure red, nice sheen. Budding elegance on the nose – soft waves of red fruit, gentle ripples, has licorice and fennel on its sides creating a frame: this beckons well. The palate offers a mix of dashing fruit and smoky obscurity, mystery. Excellent purity here, with the grounded realism of the Brune on the finish – that extra structure and content. It opens its door into the terroir, is an STGT wine. It ends freshly, with a hint of oak. Fine balance. Burgundian style. From mid-2012. 2027-29 Nov 2010

2007

(550-litre 12-year old cask) full, bright robe; there is a violet outer coating to the broad bouquet, sizzled bacon within, has latent game in it, an earthy foundation, an aroma that persists. The palate sets off with a northern sector clarity, swiftly surrounded by a jostle of ripe matter – blackberry fruit with a firm depth. It ends on a clear note, goes straight to the line. The end tannins are quite marked, so drink from 2013-14. Has a good, fresh nature. Elegant, but also well filled – a success. Very long, and an aromatic aftertaste completes this promising picture. 2033-35 Dec 2008

2006

(half bottle) quite a full red laced with some black. There is quiet class in the bouquet – the aroma leaves a silken trail; there are floral wafts and a pretty fruit such as blackberry, also lamb stock for a little more oomph. The palate has an attractive, refined fruit debut, all as one, with a very bonny curve of appeal – the fruit runs with beauty. The length is good, with graphite clarity at the end. The tannins are smoky, have life, can integrate well. Very beau – this reflects its terroir. There is a tickle of new oak at the end that can be absorbed. From late 2012. Bottled Sept 2008. 2028-30 Dec 2008 Previously June 2007 ***** (cask) black berry, plum, roasted meat, coffee beans aroma. The palate is elegant, with plenty here: its fruit holds up well, and shows berries and a bit of pepper late on. I like its late width, and there is a good finale. This is a very good northern sector Côte-Rôtie, with an iron, mineral thread all through it. There are plenty of tannins, but they are fine. Good length. 2026-29 “It does not lack much – it is dense, but you sense the wine inside it,” Jean-Paul Jamet. June 2007

2005

(cask) full, quite dark robe. Firmly-knit, black fruit aroma, with wee raspberry and floral airs, and a trace of oak underneath, some toasting. The palate is meaty, almost oily; shows glimpses of black fruit, with end richness which indicates its serious future ahead. Is very dense, has good grain in it, and its tannins are solid but ripe. Very persistent, a wine that is up with the best that France can offer. From 2013. To be bottled Nov 2007. 2033-36 June 2007

2004 ()

(cask) raspberry, plum aroma that is well set - red fruits and mentholet mixed. Brewed red fruits attack of cherry, plum. Wine with good heart. The dash of stone fruit on the finish lies within tannins that need four years or so. Length good, chunky shape at end. Even though they are ripe, the fruits are fresh. Soft spices add some intrigue. Very persistent. 2024-28 April 2006

2003

half bottle April 2006 traces of new oak in a sleek, appealing nose, also vanilla, flowers and blackcurrant leaf. Black berry flavour, with a good, persistent core and a real local honesty. STGT wine before the impost of the new oak. A little chocolate, roundness on finish, cooked fruits, wholesome finale. Drinks well now, but esp 2009 on. 13.5°. 2022-24  April 2006

2002

half bottle April 2006 raspberry jam-vanilla scented nose, now entering a mineral, second stage, some black chocolate lurking. Elegant, well-shaped wine on palate, comes in a friendly style, is open early. From mid-palate, gains tea and mineral as the lack of body shows up. Red fruits-mint mix here, too. Scented, red fruits end. To 2016-18 "I'd have liked 10 extra days of ripening." J-P Jamet

2001

½ bottle: steady red robe still. Tapenade of black olives, sizzled bacon, spice and flowers show on the nose, which goes long, has much variety and great strength within. The attack is close-knit, and this is just emerging – it has a flavour of spiced, sooked plums, still live tannins, coupled in with fine gras richness. This is tasty, beguiling, and delivers triumphant uplift on the close. “It has elegance, volume, length – it is the kind of vintage we love,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2034-37 April 2016 Previously (cask) ***** dark fruit/game, quietly solid nose; elegant, then broadens. Serious wine. Full, gras, has good cut, fruit persists. Classy, very well-wrapped, stylish. From 2008-09. 2023-26

2000

dark, compact nose - olives/smoked meat; very tight, rolled-up black flavour. Quite firm, has gras. Oak notes on end, tannins OK. Esp 2008-09, when round and persistent. 2017-20

1999

great bouquet, lightly spiced, nicely ripe fruit/flowers; plenty of matter - olives/black fruits, great richness on second half. Clean, spiced finish. From 2009. 2022-25

1998

(cask) good depth of aroma, chocolate, dark matter; well-knit flavour, broadens through the palate; Sustained length. From 2005. 2020-22

1997

fantastic bouquet, black cherries, oils mighty amount; great fruit attack, explosive. Great length, lots of squeezed fruit. Tannins well enrobed. Grand Vin. 2015-19

1995 ()

½ bottle: gentle evolution in its red robe. Peony, floral drift across the nose that has a red cherry heart, has a fine cut that is very 1995, and a bit of a game aroma, an earthy foundation. Cedar and cigar box airs are also in attendance. The palate is mixing leather, fungal notes with its red jam, plum fruit. It is still on its vintage – the tight tension of those tannins. It dries a little at the end, is a wee bit strict there. There is a clack of flint and schist here, with floral infusion, hints of camomile. It has a roasted nature, indeed is Vin Rôti, on the palate. Very faithful to its vintage, is clear as a bell on the finish. Still finding its way. 2026-28  May 2013

1994 ()

sweet, violet, soft fruit aroma; well-rounded attack, quite dense, honest. No real delicacy, but a lot of warm charm. 2007-09